Summary and outcome of the BMC Fixed Gear Conference 2026

Dringo Creigiau
•
01 Hyd
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3 min read

Last weekend, the BMC brought together climbers, route developers, local activists, technical specialists and industry representatives for the BMC’s first ever Fixed Gear Conference. The conference brought together a wealth of experience from across the climbing community, with over 60 participants representing numerous bolt funds and every BMC local area, plus visitors from Scotland, Wales, Ireland, Spain and from the UIAA in Switzerland.

The group explored a whole range of issues through presentations, practical sessions and open discussion. From the technical details of materials, testing and installation, to the realities of funding bolt replacement and managing equipment across our crags, the day was about one thing: sharing knowledge and working together to improve the future of fixed gear in the UK.

Key outcomes from the Conference

It was acknowledged that as standards develop, the sport will need to keep pace, be more organised and more rigorous. Though no formal vote was taken it was clearly the desire of the conference for the BMC to take the lead on behalf of the climbing community. Initially, eight potential work streams were identified, which the BMC will now take under consideration:

  1. Support a free flow of information between the bolt funds and encourage more detailed discussion about structure, organisation and governance; training and commonality of approach. Everyone is encouraged to use the new WhatsApp Group.
  2. Facilitate a route for bolt funds to join the BMC as Affiliated Clubs in order to benefit from the Combined Liability Insurance.
  3. Review and revise the BMC’s published guidance on the installation and use of fixed gear and a guide to installing bolts.
  4. Support the BMC’s Land and Property Trust to review and revise the policies and practical arrangements for our owned and managed crags.
  5. Reinforce the principle of the participation statement to emphasise it is the duty of all climbers to evaluate the integrity of fixed equipment before placing reliance on it.
  6. Develop guidance on the process of installation (alongside the materials work already developed by UIAA) and then the broader systemic issues of training, record keeping, inspection.
  7. Assist the bolt funds to create a minimum standard for installation and inspection records. This would build on the work already undertaken by the South West and Cumbria bolt funds. This may lead to the requirement for the BMC to develop and host a central record keeping platform and link to the UIAA database for manufacturers safety notices and recalls.
  8. Continue to work with the UIAA to develop new standards for installation, training and certification. This may lead to some form of standardised training scheme.

Copies of the key note speakers and workshop presentations will be available here shortly.

A huge thank you to everyone who contributed their time, expertise and experience. The conversations started at this conference will help shape the work ahead. The BMC will now be working towards a more detailed plan of action with costings and timelines by December 2026. It was also agreed to hold a follow-up conference in September 2028.

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