BMC Land and Property Trust (LPT)
Climb, Protect, Support
The BMC owns eight crags across England and Wales, and actively supports the management of several others for the benefit of climbers. Some sites have been given to us over the years while others have been purchased or acquired at auction to secure long-term access.
Owning and managing land is a major responsibility which takes time and costs money; land ownership is a last resort for the BMC, our preference always being to help landowners manage access to their land.
The management of our sites is the responsibility of a part time paid Land & Property Manager supported by expert volunteers in our Land Management Group and the BMC Land & Property Trust.
The BMC also has close management involvement with several other major climbing sites including Upper Pen Trwyn on the Great Orme and Cheddar Gorge in Somerset.
BMC Owned Sites
Horseshoe Quarry (Derbyshire)
Horseshoe is a large and very popular limestone quarry near Stoney Middleton in the heart of the Peak District. Quick drying with a good spread of mid-grade sport routes, it is now closely managed by the BMC.
Aldery Cliff (Derbyshire)
A sunny little crag set amongst beautiful rolling limestone scenery. Popular locally and has undergone extensive restoration and improvement work in recent years. BMC has owned the site since 1994.
Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog (Gwynedd)
The first crag acquired by the BMC, back in 1979, and still one of the best. A nationally important dolerite crag, sheltered and sunny with 100s of quality routes from V Diff to E8 on top quality rock; classics include One step in the Clouds (VS), Meshach (HVS), the Plum (E1), Cream (E4) and Strawberries (E7).
Craig-y-Longridge (Lancashire)
A unique and severely overhanging sandstone bouldering / traversing crag near Longridge, Lancs. 5-6 metres in height it features a couple of incredible 75 metre traverses in the f8a+ to 8b+ range. Saved by the BMC from a housing development in 2007 Craig Y Longridge is guaranteed to make you strong - if you can hang on long enough.
Harrison’s Rocks (East Sussex)
Harrison's is the most popular southern sandstone crag with a great selection of climbs in a quiet woodland setting in East Sussex. Ownership transferred to the BMC in 2009 and the site is now actively managed by a group of local climbers.
Wilton 1 Quarry (Lancashire)
Wilton 1 is an impressive grit / sandstone quarry up to 26 metres high near Bolton, Lancs. Acquired by the BMC from North West Water at auction in 2008 when at risk of development for other purposes. Scene of the popular 'Wilton Fest' (annual climbing festival run local volunteers). Actively managed by the BMC and convenient for the nearby Wilton Arms.
Stone Farm Rocks (East Sussex)
A pleasant crag with a lovely outlook across the rolling countryside near East Grinstead, West Sussex, acquired from the Gravetye Estate in 2001 and the BMC’s closest site to London.
Crookrise (Yorkshire)
One of the best gritstone crags in Yorkshire with a mix of routes and boulders covering most grades. Set in moorland a few miles from Skipton. Bought from the Yorkshire Dales National Park in 2017.
FAQs
The main contacts for queries are our BMC Access & Conservation Officers for England and Wales
For English properties please contact: Jon.Fulwood@thebmc.co.uk
For Welsh properties please contact: Tom.Carrick@thebmc.co.uk
Various types of maintenance work is undertaken on BMC sites throughout the year, some by local volunteers, some by specialist contractors. Crag clean ups are occasionally run by the local volunteers and in some cases volunteers also get involved with checking and replacing fixed equipment.
Any climbers with ideas or suggestions about work needed at BMC crags should raise these with the relevant BMC local area group to determine the degree of support, and gain approval.
Phill Hargreaves is employed by the BMC as a part time Land & Property Manager with day-to-day responsibility for the management of BMC crags.
Other opportunities to volunteer on BMC supported upland conservation projects can be found here. Click here for more information
Other issues relating to specific climbs or bird nesting on routes etc can be reported via the BMC RAD pages for the particular crag.
Any urgent safety or other issues can be reported to the BMC Access & Conservation Officers.
Owning and managing crags and land for the benefit of the climbing community comes with a considerable financial cost. The BMC carry out routine inspections and work such as tree safety reports and resulting remedial work, maintenance of fencing and access furniture, path improvements as well as general maintenance, improvements, and ecological enhancements.
