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GEAR

Safety alert for Fixe lower-offs: updated

1
02/11/2018

The DAV (German Alpine Club) have issued a safety alert for lower-off units from manufacturer Fixe, some of which have been reported to fail by cracking of one of the chain links. These units are primarily designed for use at indoor walls, but are also sometimes installed outside with the hangers mounted onto expansion bolts to provide an outdoor lower-off.
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GEAR

Should Stainless Steel bolts become a thing of the past?

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16/06/2014

Sheffield’s Titanium bolt guru, Martin Roberts, thinks Stainless Steel bolts should become a thing of the past; not just in super corrosive tropical environments like Thailand, but also in the UK. Sarah Stirling finds out more.
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GEAR

Warning: bolt failure on North Wales limestone

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29/05/2013

Following the catastrophic failure of a bolt on a North Wales limestone route, the BMC is advising climbers to treat all ‘Thunderbolt’ anchors with caution. Read on for more details and advice on how to detect these bolts.
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SKILLS

How to lower off from a sport climb

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25/01/2013

Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
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GEAR

Better bolts campaign 2012-13: great news for sport climbers

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21/08/2012

Great news for sport climbers! Once again the BMC is providing free bolts and accessories to bolt funds in England & Wales. Bolt funds are invited to make applications for equipment to replace old bolts and belays to help make our sport climbs safer.
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GEAR

UIAA issue anchor corrosion warning

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28/06/2012

The UIAA Safety Commission has issued an update to a warning notice originally sent out in 2009, regarding the danger of environmental degradation of bolt anchors. This update warns that the problem is more widespread than originally thought.
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GEAR

Smalldale: update on failed bolts

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11/05/2012

News that two bolts failed recently on the Smalldale route Summat Outanowt has prompted anxiety in the Peak climbing community. Gary Gibson, who re-equipped the routes at the end of last year, has sent an email to the BMC saying that he has replaced the bolts. He has also checked bolts on several other routes at Smalldale – a list of these routes appears below.
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GEAR

Warning over fake Petzl equipment

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17/02/2011

The equipment manufacturer Petzl has discovered that criminals are making counterfeit copies of some of its equipment.
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GEAR

BMC Technical Officer Dan on UKC

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07/08/2010

BMC Technical Officer Dan Middleton was live on the UKC Forums on Monday 9 August answering questions on all things gear related.
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GEAR

Cwmaman Bolt Workshop

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18/06/2010

Nestled in the beautiful Cynon Valley in South Wales, Cwmaman is a small sandstone quarried crag. I met up with local volunteers and the South Wales Bolt Fund last weekend. What happened?
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