News that two bolts failed recently on the Smalldale route Summat Outanowt has prompted anxiety in the Peak climbing community. Gary Gibson, who re-equipped the routes at the end of last year, has sent an email to the BMC saying that he has replaced the bolts. He has also checked bolts on several other routes at Smalldale – a list of these routes appears below.
The bolts came out as a climber was lowering from the top. The climber reported that the glue that should have held the bolts in place had not worked and the outward pressure of the rope had forced them out.
Smalldale, near Buxton, has around 50 routes mostly in the very popular grades between 6a and 7a. Summat Outanowt was first climbed in 2007.
This incident highlights the need for climbers to be careful and diligent when using and placing any fixed gear. Sport climbing has inherent risks, and it is the responsibility of individual climbers to be aware of them. More information on how to spot a suspect bolt, and guidelines for good practice when equipping can be found in the BMC bolt guidance documents: BMC bolt guidance documents
The following routes have been re-checked:
Sock it to 'em
Learn the Lingo
Mr Love Pants
Riding the Bullet
More Chattery Teeth
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