Smalldale: update on failed bolts

Posted by Daniel Middleton on 11/05/2012
Smalldale Quarry.

News that two bolts failed recently on the Smalldale route Summat Outanowt has prompted anxiety in the Peak climbing community. Gary Gibson, who re-equipped the routes at the end of last year, has sent an email to the BMC saying that he has replaced the bolts. He has also checked bolts on several other routes at Smalldale – a list of these routes appears below.

The bolts came out as a climber was lowering from the top. The climber reported that the glue that should have held the bolts in place had not worked and the outward pressure of the rope had forced them out.

Smalldale, near Buxton, has around 50 routes mostly in the very popular grades between 6a and 7a. Summat Outanowt was first climbed in 2007.

This incident highlights the need for climbers to be careful and diligent when using and placing any fixed gear. Sport climbing has inherent risks, and it is the responsibility of individual climbers to be aware of them. More information on how to spot a suspect bolt, and guidelines for good practice when equipping can be found in the BMC bolt guidance documents: BMC bolt guidance documents

The following routes have been re-checked:
Sock it to 'em
Blockheads
Learn the Lingo
Mr Love Pants
Riding the Bullet
Open Season
More Chattery Teeth
Upminster Kid
Friend 15
 



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Anonymous User
23/05/2012
So,a route only 5 years old has failing bolts,and the bmc has a hefty bolt fund.
Why does the bmc not also have a decent fund for replacing pegs?Could it be that bolt routes cater for the masses who don't have the balls for peg equipped trad routes?
The propaganda is that pegs are less safe than bolts.Truth is,BOTH need to be regularly replaced.
Please start a peg fund.

paul mitchell,New Mills

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