How to lower off from a sport climb
Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
What goes up must come down - but lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
The below video covers some of the ways in which to lower off from the fixed belays found at the top of sport climbs. Because these belays are generally installed by individual climbers, they can vary greatly in quality and construction, so it's helpful to research the different types of hardware you might come across on a route. Some general principles apply:
1. When you reach the belay, secure yourself to it, independently of the rope. For example, using a quickdraw from your harness belay loop into one of the bolts. Some climbers use a sling which they larks foot onto their harness belay loop. The advantage is that it is more difficult to accidentally unclip or clip into the wrong part of the harness. If the belay bolts are not linked by a good strong chain, you might decide to clip into both for extra security.
2. Thread the rope through the belay. How you do this will depend on the type of belay. The video shows ways to do this without ever being completely detached from the rope. Make sure you have threaded your rope into the correct part/s of the belay. Sometimes you may have to leave your own karabiner or maillon behind because the belay is not complete or looks damaged/corroded.
3. Clear Communication. Re-threading a lower off is probably the most hazardous part of sport climbing as the leader needs to untie and then retie onto the rope. Falling from the top of a sport climb is likely to have fatal consequences. As well as the leader checking the anchors and attachment knots, clear communication with the belayer is essential.
WATCH: How to lower off a sport climb with Emma Twyford
Diagrams showing some of the techniques used in the video can be found in the very helpful free to download BMC booklet New Rock Climbers
Remember:
Always lower off from two independent bolts, thread both if they are not linked or the link is suspect.
Never lower off with the rope threaded through a hanger. The sharp edges may cut through your rope.
If the belay contains slings or rope, never thread your rope through these directly. Be prepared to leave a karabiner or maillon if you have to.
If there is a chain and ring linking the bolts, use the ring to lower off. This saves wear on the belay and on your rope.
Learn and practice these techniques in a safe environment, and if necessary seek qualified instruction.
Related Content
Performance News
Erin McNeice secured a third-place finish in the Lead World Cup in Chamonix, adding a fourth Lead medal to her season tally. Meanwhile, Andrew Goodall narrowly missed setting a new British Speed climbing record by 0.029 seconds.
Mountaineering Learn
Mountain safety matters - and it’s more important than ever as more people take to the hills and mountains of England and Wales. That’s why, since April 2024, the BMC has been coordinating a new initiative: the England and Wales Mountain Safety Forum (EWMSF).
Indoor Climbing
What does it take to set a championship climbing event? We caught up with professional route setter Zoë to find out.
Rock Climbing News
With the help from Chris Bonington and other legendary climbers, the BMC has reached an agreement with the Isle of Wight National Trust about rock climbing access at Skeleton Ridge on The Needles.
Indoor Climbing Gear
Assisted braking devices are a firm favourite among sport climbers, offering an extra layer of confidence when belaying, but they're not infallible. Here are some top tips for choosing and using an assisted braking device...
Hill Walking News
With the Easter Bank Holiday approaching and more people than ever heading to the hills, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is echoing a vitally important message from Mountain Rescue England and Wales (MREW): be prepared, be informed, and don’t rely on your phone alone.
Performance News
With the first senior IFSC World Cups just around the corner, the GB Climbing Teams are preparing for the busy 2025 season ahead.
Indoor Climbing Learn
V-grade, French or Font? Have indoor grades got you scratching your head? Here's an overview of what to expect at the wall...
Hill Walking Articles
It isn’t just winter that brings threatening weather to the British hills. Summer storms can be fatal – so what should you do to stay safe?
Rock Climbing
The new owners of Masson Lees Quarry, Derbyshire, hope to resolve the long-term controversy over parking issues, and many more improvements, thanks to funding from the BMC's Access & Conservation Trust.
Performance News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce the climbers who have been named as part of the England National and Regional Squads for the 2025 season.
Hillwalking Gear
At the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), we’re passionate about helping walkers, hikers, and mountaineers get the most out of their time in the great outdoors. Whether you’re setting off on a relaxed countryside ramble or tackling a challenging mountain route, having the right gear is essential for safety, comfort, and enjoyment.
Indoor Climbing Articles
Since its founding in 2023, the National Universities Lead and Speed Climbing Championships (NULSCC) has rapidly grown into one of the UK’s premier university climbing competitions. Created by passionate climbers Elliot Payne and Laure Renault during their final year at the University of Warwick, NULSCC was born from a shared love for competition climbing and a desire to build an inclusive, high-level event for student athletes.
Indoor Climbing News
The competition is heating up on Day 2 of the British Lead Championships as the semi-finals conclude at the Big Depot, Manchester.
Performance News
The qualification round of the 2025 British Lead Championships concluded this evening, with Olympian Toby Roberts top of the Senior Men and a three-way tie at the top of the Senior Women.
Performance News
This weekend (Saturday 8 February - Sunday 9 February), the country’s top Lead climbers will battle it out for the coveted title of British Champion.
Rock Climbing Gear
A list of retailers and organisations who can help you re-use, repair or recycle your old or unwanted clothing and outdoor kit.
Indoor Climbing Articles
'Tis the season for indoor sessions! But if you feel like you're becoming part of the furniture at your local, why not try a bit of wall tourism? Grab your mates and get ready to check out some of the UK's coolest climbing walls...
Mountaineering Learn Skills
In the winter hills you need to constantly make informed decisions, some of these relating to avalanche conditions. In this article from Summit magazine, Andy Nelson takes a look at avalanches in the Scottish hills.
Rock Climbing Articles
Ready to have a go on the sharp end? We've put together a list of eight great choices for your first ever trad lead in the Lake District.
Rock Destinations
Leonidio is a limestone sport climbing paradise in the Peloponnese region of mainland Greece. With a mixture of steep tufa climbs and intricately pocketed slabs, there's something for everyone and a grade range to match, but the sheer amount of rock in the region can leave you feeling flustered. Where to begin? Read on...
Indoor Climbing
Ahead of the 2025 Boulder, Lead and Speed season, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) have made changes to how they define age categories.
Rock Climbing Articles
When it comes to gift-giving, we know the best things in life aren't always 'things'! Team BMC have been hard at work putting together a list of really great Christmas gift ideas that are a bit ‘outside the box’...
Indoor Climbing News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is pleased to announce that the British Boulder and Lead Championships, the pinnacle of the domestic competition calendar, will take place in Manchester in early 2025.
Rock Destinations
Dreaming of big numbers this year? We reveal six sizzling holiday rock destinations that will send your grade through the roof. Whether your sight is on 6b or you're aching for 8a, here are Steve McClure's top picks.
Rock Climbing
A peregrine survey by boat with high-quality photography organised by local BMC Access Reps Iain Peters and James Mann has helped to identify peregrine nesting sites so that a blanket ban on climbing at the Cornish climbing site of Carn Cowla can be lifted. A temporary ban had been put in place by the National Trust covering the cliffs between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, including major route locations up to and beyond the America Buttress. The ban has now been lifted so all sections are open, with only crag- and area-specific restrictions in place when necessary.
Performance News
The IFSC Paraclimbing European Championships in Villars, Switzerland, this weekend saw 13 GB Climbing athletes clip into the Lead wall, delivering strong performances and personal bests across the board.
Mountaineering Destinations
Want to know everything you need to know about how to climb the Breithorn - one of the classic "4,000ers". Mountain Guide Andy Perkins offers his insider tips.
Performance News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce the 18 athletes who will represent the GB Climbing team at the 2024 IFSC Youth World Championships in Guiyang, China. The event is scheduled to take place from Thursday 22 August to Sunday 1 September at the Guizhou Bureau of Sports.
Get Climbing
Climbing walls are a great way to start climbing and to stay fit. We’ve made it easy for you to discover local climbing wall in your area. Take a look at our BMC Climbing Wall Finder.
Rock Climbing
A climbers’ meeting this week expressed their opposition to the continued ban on climbing at Symonds Yat, Herefordshire, imposed by Forestry England.
Olympics News
The 2024 Olympic Games are underway, and the nation's eyes are firmly on Paris and all the Team GB athletes. As Sport Climbing makes its second-ever appearance at the Olympic Games, we get to witness a new chapter in history as four climbers step out onto the mats to represent Great Britain.
Indoor Climbing Articles
If anyone is out there and is looking to start competitions, where would they look?