How to set up a top rope on Southern Sandstone bolted anchors

Rock Climbing Skills
02 Jul
3 min read

Ever since 2021, a new method of setting up the top rope on the bolted anchors at Southern Sandstone crags has changed. Read on to make sure you're following the latest method.

The previous system of a main bolt (which takes all of the load), secured to a backup bolt with a swaged steel cable, had been used on Southern Sandstone for 30 years or more.

However, updated expert advice recommended that this change to both bolts equalised to a central point, in line with standard practice elsewhere.

It is not possible to equalise the bolts with in situ equipment in a way that is both strong and will not cause damage to the rock, so the current method requires you to equalise both bolts as part of your top-rope setup.

Since 2021, all swaged wire backups have been removed from bolted sandstone anchors. Additional bolts have been placed where needed at Harrison’s and Stone Farm Rocks as part of an ongoing BMC program of renewing and updating bolted anchors.

You should arrive with equipment to allow you to equalise the double bolt anchors to a central point. There are many ways of doing this but the most common and easiest is to use either a sling or rigging rope with screw gates on each bolt.

Remember to extend the anchor point sufficiently to prevent your climbing rope from wearing the rock. It’s a good idea to use rope protectors over any rigging to prevent damage to slings/ropes and the rock from normal movement whilst belaying.

Above: one example of how to set up and equalised top rope anchor on two bolts with a sling. Note that here the sling is long enough that the central point hangs over the edge, which is essential to prevent wear from the moving climbing rope. In some cases, you will need to extend the central point to ensure it hangs over the edge of the crag, (as in the header photo).

The BMC would like to thank and acknowledge DMM for their assistance with testing.

WATCH: Respect The Rock | Southern Sandstone Top Roping on BMC TV

WATCH: Respect The Rock | Southern Sandstone Bouldering on BMC TV

BMC Travel Insurance

Join the BMC

Cotswold Outdoor Discount

Related Content

COOKIES

We use cookies to analyse web traffic, and to improve the user experience. For these reasons, we may share your site usage data with our analytics partners. You can choose to accept all cookies, or select separate preferences for each of the third-party partners we use.

SET COOKIES PREFERENCES