Top 10 Via Ferratas in France, Italy and the UK
Think that you can't climb towers like these? Think again. Clip into our top ten via ferratas and reach heights that normal walks just can't reach.
From French footholds to Cortina’s cables; from helpful handrails to the mammoth Marmolada, here are ten of the best iron ways to supersize your scrambling this summer. So, don’t hang around – it’s time to do some ironing.
Learn the iron ways in the Lake District. Introduced at Honister Slate Mine in 2007 by ill-fated local entrepreneur Mark Weir, this controversial Lakeland via ferrata is the first – and probably the last – in the UK. Using the original Miners track up the outer incline of Fleetwith Pike (648m), there are two routes to choose from: classic and extreme. Mark Weir went on to die in a helicopter crash near his mine, but the idea of bolting on a zip wire continues to divide opinion. Chris Bonington being a keen supporter, apparently.
Grade: EP (Easy-Peasy)
Ferrata fear? More tourist attraction than testing route, but a great way for children to get to grips with via ferrata.
9. Via Ferrata de Luca / Paternkofel Italy
Take your first steps on a real Dolomite via ferrata at Paternkofel. With breath-taking 360-degree summit views, eerie wartime galleries and only a short section of protected cabled climbing, this is the ideal easy introduction. There are two approaches; the best is to ascend from the Col Laverado to the old wartime galleries, then gradually gain height until you reach the col marking the ascent up to the Paternkofel (2,744m). Your summit reward is the classic view of the Tre Cime. After returning to the col, head east towards the Bullelejochhutte. Interesting bridges, ladders and ledges take you along this once heavily-defended route towards one of the most hospitable huts in the mountains: the Drei Zinnen hut. An overnight stay, whilst not essential, allows you to explore more.
Grade: 1a
Ferrata fear? Nothing to fear here. Depending on your experience, and head for heights, you might not even need to clip in.
8. Tälli, Gadmen, Switzerland
Over 1.3km of cables, 78 metre-ladders and 550 metal spikes make up Tälli, the first via ferrata in Switzerland. Winding its way through the steep Gadmen cliffs, this 600m long route gives you spectacular exposure. From Fuhren on the Susten Pass road, start with a 1.5 hour walk through forests and meadows to the Tälli hut or cough up and take the cable car. From the hut, the climb takes around four hours to the top and another three back down to Engstlenalp.
Grade: 2A
Ferrata fear? A medium-standard ferrata that will gently test your surefootedness, fitness and head for heights.
WATCH: Tälli Via Ferrata - 2540m
7. Ivano Dibona, Cortina, Italy
Experience your own cliffhanger moment on the Sentiero Ferrato Ivano Dibano, a linear traverse of the ridge of Monte Cristallino in the Dolomites. Another route packed with wartime memorabilia, such as old ladders, hits and military positions, it also features the longest suspensions bridge in the Dolomites, as used in Sly Stalone's Cliffhanger. There are several ways to tackle this (fairly long route depending on where you want to descent the ridge after using the lift system or power you own way up; either way, the crux is working out how to return to where you started. For real via ferrata fans, the Via Ferrata Cristallino D'Ampezzo can also be ticked in the winter. Chilly.
Grade: 2B
Ferrata fear? A very popular route. No real technical difficulties but with some exposed traverses.
6. VF Dei Finanzieri-Colac, Val Di Fassa, Italy
Don't be misled by the grade of this route - this takes a wild laddered journey up a dauntingly steep rock wall to the summit of Colac. The actual via ferrata section may be short in distance but more than makes up for it in height gained. Sustained and exposed, this is the ideal antidote to the gentler, over-in-tent-minute affairs. Your reward is the top of Colac: a solitary peak with great views of the Marmolada.
Grade: VF3C
Ferrata fear? A long and strenuous ferrata, but not a long mountain day overall. With considerable exposure and risk of stone fall from parties above, helmets are essential.
WATCH: Via Ferrata Dei Finanzieri-Colac
5. Les Etroits, Devoluy, Hautes Alpes, France
Nothing beats the atmosphere of a gorge ferrata, especially on a searingly hot summer's day. The Gorge des Etroits is in a small mountain region (west of the Ecrin, before the Vercors) - a haven of beautiful sub 3,000m peaks, good climbing and great ferrata, This is the spot that one of France's greatest Alpinistes, Rennée Demaison, chose to be laid to rest (not on the ferrata!). This route comprises a warm up - a bridge, some vertical rungs and popping through a couple of short caves - and the main event: Le Vertigo. Here the gorge narrows, the walls steeps and the Hirrondelles tear past you. A great tour to do in the heat of the summer, when the gorge feels wonderfully cool and a visit to the local bar is de-rigeur.
Grade: D+
Ferrata fear? A typically French gorge ferrata: atmospheric, gymnastic and very well protected.
4. Grande Fistoire, Hautes Alpes, France
A fearsome French ferrata you'll never forget, with a stomach-churning 100m drop from one of the longest cable bridges in Europe. This brilliant ferrata lies away from the mainstream of the Haute Alpes and has a ten Euro admission price, but well worth it. The initial climbing follows grooves and chimneys to the grand wall (an exposed traverse on staples) whilst the spectre of the Grande Passerelle -a nearly 60m long cable bridge - hangs over you. continuing the exposed traverse, you arrive at the Bombu, a series of short overhangs, then a descent to arrive at the Grande Passerelle. When constructed, this was the longest ferrata bridge in Europe. with the bridge just made of three cables (plus one for your shock absorber), it's difficult to focus on your feet instead of the distant valley floor. After escaping, three tyrolean rides will keep your adrenaline levels topped up.
Grade: D+ / TD / VF4B
Ferrata fear? With a grade of D+, a couple of overhands and a 59m suspension bridge, this is no place for the fainthearted.
Rockfax Guidebook: The Dolomites
The Rockfax covers everything you need for a climbing trip in the Dolomites regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three.
3. Punta Anna and Gianni Aglio, Tofana Di Mezzo, Italy
One of the most difficult routes in the Dolomites, combining two via ferratas to gain the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3,444m), the third highest peak in the Dolomites. Start on Giuseppe Olivieri Ferrata (Punta Anna) and then tackle the upper part on the Gianni Aglio Ferrata. The first ferrata has the most continuous and difficult climbing, the the upper part makes up for it with more unprotected sections, route finding challenges and wild situations. It's hard to work out what's best: the technical climbing, the fantastic exposure or the fact that there's a cable car on the summit waiting to whisk you back down to glory.
Grade: VF5C
Ferrata fear? Technically hard and committing, this demanding via ferrata features sustained climbing and exposure on a high, serious mountain. Not to be underestimated.
2. Via delle Bochetta, Brenta, Italy
Combine cosy alpine huts and convenient via ferrata in the wild Western Dolomites to create one of the Alps' finest high-lavel mountain journeys. the via delle Bocchetta is an epic hut-to-hut traverse, comparable to Chamonix's Haute Routes. Six to seven high mountain via ferratas can be linked up to forge a journey through the spectacular scenery of the Brenta region. And, whilst none of the individual ferratas are technically very difficult, they add up to one big adventure.
Grade: At least VF3C
Ferrata fear? A real mountain expedition, featuring a terrifying traverses along very narrow ledges, alpine weather, huge drops and endless ladders and cables. Snow and glacier crossings very likely.
1. Marmolada, West Ridge, Val Di Fassa, Italy
Via ferrata becomes mountaineering on the queen of the Dolomites. This long and committing route follows Marmolada's West Ridge to Punta Penia summit at 3,343m.
Start either with an overnight stay in Rifugio Contrin or, for an easier way to complete the route in a day, take the rickety Seggiovia lift to Rifugio Pla del Fiaconni at 2,650m. A descending path leads to a small glacier crossing and the beginning of the cables. Once clipped in, the West Ridge takes around two hours to the summit. The way is well protected and relatively simple when conditions are good and it's dry and free of ice. However with much of the ridge north facing and above 3,000m, sections of wire are often buried in snow and you might need crampons to negotiate icy sections. The summit is only halfway on this full-on mountain day: descending can involve abseils and negotiating ice falls and crevasses.
Grade: VF4C (in good conditions)
Ferrata fear? A serious mountaineering excursion to the summit of the highest peak in the Dolomites. Conditions can change quickly; an ice axe, crampons and a full rope are essential. new snowfall may conceal crevasses; previous experience of glacier crossing recommended.
Words: Ian Fenton and Karl Mather. Ian (mountfenton@supanet.com) holds the MIC and IML and instructs in the UK and across Europe. Karl (karldmather@gmail.com) holds the IML and leads treks across Europe, particularly in Italy.
Article originally from BMC Summit #69.
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