How to climb Piz Badile - the finest granite climb in the Alps

British Mountain Guide Tom Ripley talks us through the climb.

Unlike many famous Alpine summits, Piz Badile is defined not by glaciers or snowy ridges but by flawless granite. Long rock routes, sustained climbing and spectacular exposure make it a dream objective for competent rock climbers looking to experience alpine rock climbing at its very best.

Standing on the summit after climbing hundreds of metres of perfect granite is a deeply rewarding experience. One can look south towards the Val di Mello or north towards the Bernina Range. At this point it is easy to understand why Piz Badile has become one of Europe’s most celebrated mountains.

Although technically accessible by modern climbing standards, Piz Badile should not be underestimated. The routes are long and committing, and the descents equally so. Success depends on efficient movement, favourable weather and a solid climbing partnership.

The North Ridge | Grade: Difficile

The North Ridge is the classic route and one of the finest rock routes in Europe. It follows an elegant line up the crest of the mountain, weaving together slabs, cracks, corners and airy knife-edge sections, all on superb granite. For a British climber, the difficulties are sustained at around V Diff, with a couple of crux pitches that are closer to VS.

Most parties spend the night at the delightful Sasc Furä Hut (the last time I stayed we were served homemade ice cream for dessert!) before making an alpine start. For the keen alpinist, there is a plethora of bivouac sites between the hut and the start of the North Ridge.

The approach is straightforward at first, following a good path before turning into scrambling as you near the ridge. It is a good idea to reach the base of the ridge around first light. Early or late in the season you will need crampons and an ice axe for the approach. This has the disadvantage of making your rucksack heavier, but the climbs are often quieter as a result.

The climbing on the North Ridge is wonderfully varied and, despite the relatively modest technical grade, the overall seriousness of the climb should not be underestimated. There are plenty of large ‘door-knocker’ bolts for belays.

As you climb higher, the ridge narrows, the exposure increases, and the views over the Bregaglia become ever more spectacular. Every pitch feels like a classic climb in its own right. Reaching the summit is immensely satisfying; few alpine rock climbs offer such sustained quality on such an elegant natural line.

The descent follows the normal route down the south side towards Rifugio Gianetti, where it is recommended that you spend the night. Although relatively straightforward, the descent remains complex and involves several abseils.

It is also possible to descend the North Ridge by abseil, which is handy if you have left bivouac gear at the base. I did this once after climbing the North-East Face and, while I lived to tell the tale, I would struggle to recommend it!

After a night in Rifugio Gianetti you have two options:

• Walk down into the Val di Mello and take a taxi (or public transport) back to your car. If you are lucky, you may find another team in the hut with whom to share the cost.
• Walk back to the car via Passo Porcellizzo and Passo della Trubinasca. This is a full day’s walk through remote and wild valleys. While beautiful, it is exposed, scrambly and can still hold snow. Crampons and ice axe can be helpful. It is best to contact the hut for conditions advice first.

Other Routes

Piz Badile is perhaps best known for its legendary North-East Face, first climbed in 1937 by Riccardo Cassin and his team. The Cassin Route (TD), one of Gaston Rébuffat’s great north faces of the Alps, remains one of the world’s most famous granite climbs and continues to attract accomplished alpine climbers from around the globe.

For those seeking harder free climbing, the mountain offers numerous modern routes on exceptional granite. The People’s Direct, Another Day in Paradise and The British Route all come highly recommended for those seeking a quieter, albeit harder, experience. Regardless of the route chosen, Piz Badile delivers some of the highest-quality rock climbing anywhere in the Alps.

Skills needed for the North Ridge

Climbers should be comfortable leading and seconding multi-pitch routes at around UK Severe standard, moving efficiently over exposed terrain and managing ropes quickly. Confidence scrambling on easier ground is equally important, as is good route-finding; much of the route rewards speed and efficient decision-making.

Unlike many high Alpine objectives, altitude is less of a limiting factor on Piz Badile. However, endurance remains critical. The combination of a long approach, several hundred metres of climbing and a lengthy descent makes for a demanding day out.

Why Climb with a Guide?

Many experienced climbers choose to tackle Piz Badile independently, but it remains one of the Alps’ most sought-after guided climbs.

A mountain guide can dramatically increase both safety and enjoyment by selecting the best line, managing ropework, maintaining an efficient pace and making sound decisions should conditions deteriorate. This allows clients to concentrate on the climbing itself while gaining valuable experience of alpine rock climbing techniques. Guides also bring extensive local knowledge and will usually have several contingency plans should the weather dictate a change of objective.

If you would like to hire a guide, the Hire a Guide section of the British Mountain Guides website is an excellent place to start.

Preparing for success

Preparation begins well before arriving in Switzerland. Regular rock climbing is essential. Long multi-pitch routes, mountain scrambling and traditional climbing provide ideal preparation. Cardiovascular fitness is equally important, as the day involves many hours of continuous movement.

On the route, your rucksack should be as light as possible. The essentials are:

• comfortable climbing shoes
• lightweight harness and helmet
• approach shoes (or, in early season, lightweight mountaineering boots, axe and crampons)
• food and water
• a 60-metre single rope
• a set of cams, wires and quickdraws
• lightweight waterproofs
• a thin belay jacket
• leather gloves
• a bothy bag
• and a first-aid kit

Flexibility is also key. Weather windows in the mountains are often short, and knowing when to postpone, turn back or commit is all part of successful alpinism.

An unforgettable alpine rock climb

Piz Badile has earned its reputation as one of the world’s great alpine rock climbs.

Its perfect granite, sustained ridge climbing and spectacular setting combine to create an unforgettable experience. Every section of the climb rewards careful movement and efficient teamwork, while the summit provides a profound sense of achievement.

For many climbers, Piz Badile represents the moment when alpine rock climbing truly comes alive. After climbing its immaculate granite and standing high above the valleys of Switzerland and Italy, it is difficult not to begin planning the next great ridge or granite wall.

Few mountains capture the spirit of classic Alpine climbing quite like Piz Badile.

Tom Ripley is a British Mountain Guide based between the Alps and the Lake District. His favourite climbs are ones spent in good company, which are almost too hard and in a beautiful place. Follow him on Instagram: @tomripleyguiding