Second gold medal for Shauna Coxsey and a great performance from the GB Climbing Team in Kazo, Japan, during the second round of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Shauna shone throughout and topped all the problems to claim first place, continuing her perfect record in the 2016 season.
After the inspiring performance from the GB Climbing Team during Round One in Switzerland, we were definitely not disappointed by Round Two. The competition was superb, flowed fantastically, and for us watching on the other side of the world, the livestream was flawless (aside from a few minor mixups with athletes' names).
Tag onto that a sensational display of climbing from BMC Ambassador Shauna Coxsey and you could say it was the best yet.
Leah Crane, GB Climbing Team member, said: "Japan! What an amazing country and definitely the best comp we've had for a long time, and by best comp I mean the wall, the hold selection and the route setting. Fun boulders is always something a competitor loves.
"Throughout the competition, Shauna looked the strongest girl yet again and the finals were no different. She genuinely looks so much more comfortable on the wall than the other girls at the moment."
Our biggest congratulations go to BMC Ambassador Shauna Coxsey.
Qualifiers and semi-finals
With five British climbers in the line-up it was impressive to see four of our team make it through to the semi-finals. Nathan Philips was incredibly close to making semis also with two tops and four bonuses; after seeing him climb in CWIF and at Meiringen, we're positive more's to come for Nathan this year.
Tough blocs followed in the semi-finals, with some of the problems receiving no tops. Shauna's flash of the women's first problem immediately put her in the finals and Michaela Tracy hovered in sixth place until local athlete Miho Nonaka bumped her down to seventh at the last minute. Leah Crane finished in 14th place with three bonuses from five attempts.
Despite making short work of men's problem three, Tyler Landman found the other blocs trickier to top, but made all the bonuses to finish in 12th place.
Congratulations to the GB Climbing Team for their sterling efforts and performance. It was amazing to watch everyone and to see so many Brits in the semi-finals. We're psyched to see you guys in the next round.
Finals
As Shauna came through the semi-finals in first place, she was the last to come out and try women's problem one. After watching all the previous competitors struggle to top it – despite France's Melissa Le Nevé coming incredibly close by managing to have one hand on the finishing hold but failing to match – Shauna came out and breezed through the first section, took her time to work out the tricky top section and matched the final hold for the flash.
Problem two saw a flash from all bar one of the other women, but Shauna had a slight wobble on this bloc by slipping off the tricky slab traverse a couple of times. Despite the setback, she recomposed herself to dispatch the problem and retain her lead.
Shauna flashed problem three in perfect style (again the only athlete to top) which earned her the gold before the comp had ended, and big smiles all round.
Leah comments on Shauna's performance: "Is there no stopping this girl? This past winter I've been Shauna's training partner and I've witnessed how much hard work and effort she puts in to being the best in the world – her dedication is endless. It's so good to see her fit and healthy and reaping the rewards for it!"
For the men's final, Rustam Gelmanov of Russia flashed bloc one alongside Michael Piccolruaz of Italy to gain the early lead. However, a challenging problem two saw no tops despite much creative and inspiring climbing.
A flash of men's problem three from Piccolruaz kept things interesting, but Gelmanov held it together to reach the top on his first try as well. The Russian rocket then pulled ahead by being the only athlete to master the overhung slopers, two-hand dyno and knee bar of the final problem to claim gold.
Women's results:
Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Melissa Le Nevé (FRA)
Miho Nonaka (JPN)
Petra Klingler (SUI)
Fanny Gibert (FRA)
Chloé Caulier (BEL)
Men's results:
Rustam Gelmanov (RUS)
Michael Piccolruaz (ITA)
Kokoro Fujii (JPN)
Jeremy Bonder (FRA)
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS)
Rolands Rugens (LAT)
WATCH: Semi-Finals of 2016 Boulder World Cup Round Two in Kazo
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WATCH: Finals of 2016 Boulder World Cup Round Two in Kazo
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WATCH: We Are GB Climbing
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