Belay Better: Assisted braking devices
Assisted braking devices are a firm favourite among sport climbers, offering an extra layer of confidence when belaying, but they're not infallible. Here are some top tips for choosing and using an assisted braking device...
1. Know your gear
Understanding the internal workings of an assisted braking device (ABD) is the first step to feeling confident and being safe when using one. A sound knowledge of the mechanism inside your device will help you to better understand not only how to use it, but also how improper use can lead to incidents or near misses. Do your research, ask the experts and get clued up on different devices. It's also a great piece of trivia to pull out at parties.
Typically, assisted braking devices work in one of two ways, either using moving parts or geometry - requiring the carabiner and device to work together. Both apply braking force to a rope when it is under tension (catching a fall, lowering or holding a climber who is resting). These two kinds of mechanism fall into two categories:
Moving parts = ACTIVE ABD
Geometry = PASSIVE ABD
Perhaps the best known example of an active ABD is the Petzl GRIGRI, which has an internal camming system that rotates and effectively pinches the rope when it moves through the device at speed. Think of a seatbelt: if you pull it slowly and gently it will move, but tug sharply (or in the event of a sudden stop) it will lock. That's what's happening to the rope inside a GRIGRI, and this locking action is dependent on moving parts. The pinching mechanism relies on tension in the rope to be activated, therefore are still reliant on the user holding on to the dead rope in order to hold a fall. This is released by pulling a handle.
An example of a passive ABD is the Edelrid Mega Jul, which is more of a traditional tube-style belay device but its design adds an assisted braking element. A notch in the device body locks the belay carabiner into place, pinching the rope when it comes under force in a fall or when holding a resting climber. This is then released using a thumb loop.
Check out the videos below to see the difference between a passive and active ABD.
WATCH: Petzl GRIGRI | Active ABD
WATCH: Edelrid Mega Jul | Passive ABD
2. Try before you buy
There are a number of assisted braking devices on the market these days, which one you choose is down to personal preference. Whilst the mechanics can be similar, the way you use them in practice differs depending on the device, and it's crucial to know how to use your device properly.
If you're looking to buy an assisted braking device for the first time, it's advisable to get yourself to your local climbing shop or climbing wall and ask to give them a go first. Most walls or retailers will be able to help you with this by simulating a belay set-up or assisting you with using the device in practice. Things to think about are how the device feels when paying out or taking in slack, catching a fall, lowering and holding a climber who is resting on the rope or top-rope belaying. Some may feel more intuitive to you than others, and ultimately you want to feel confident and comfortable using your device of choice.
3. The golden rules
Whilst it is true that ABD's offer an extra layer of safety, that extra layer is to protect climbers and belayers from unforeseen occurrences such as rockfall, sudden distractions, trips, etc. It isn't there so you can take your hand off the dead rope and have a sandwich while your climber works out a tricky move! You know the mantra "brake hand low, don't let go"? Same applies to ABD's, always.
It's crucial that the device is used properly as incorrect use could result in the device not performing as it should. You should always read the device's official instruction manual, and if in any doubt, ask an instructor to help you get the hang of it.
Everything you learned about belaying back in your formative days applies here - be attentive, proactive, dynamic, and always tie a knot in the end of your rope!
4. The finer details
We said finer - not minor! With the various different types of ABD available, you have to consider other elements at play when using them.
Rope diameter: If you've belayed using a traditional ATC device, you might have noticed that the thickness of your rope can make belaying and lowering feel quite different. A thinner rope can feel 'slick' in your device, requiring a tighter grip and more rigid manual control of the rope. An ATC will 'bite' a thicker rope more easily, creating friction and a feeling of greater control when lowering. The same applies to ABD's, and can also affect how it feels to pay out slack. Some thicker ropes can cause ABD's to 'brake' when you don't want them to, so it's worth considering how these elements will work together.
Carabiner: Different ABD's can require different shape and diameter carabiners to function effectively. The shape and size of your belay carabiner can also greatly affect your comfort and the device's ease of use. Try out different carabiners with your device to ensure you have the perfect balance of safety, functionality and comfort, before you use it in a real-life scenario! Of course, your belay carabiner should always be the 'locking' kind (a screw gate or similar that cannot come open under pressure).
Leftie or rightie: Some left-handed belayers report that recommended techniques with certain ABD's simply don't work for them. Whilst some devices (more often than not the passive type ABD's) are ambidextrous, some devices require a specific left/right hand sequence for safe belaying. While many climbers will simply adapt to the recommended technique, others may find it tricky to navigate.
WATCH: An introduction to belay devices
5. Become a five star belayer
Whatever type of assisted braking device you decide to use, the most important thing is to use it well. It's not just about dynamic belaying, but dynamically assessing each climbing session will help to create the safest, most comfortable experience for yourself and your partner. Considering your environment, the climber's individual needs and preferences, how to give 'soft catches' and where you need to be relative to the wall to safely stop your climber from hitting the ground. These are all essential parts of being a five star belayer, whatever device you decide to use.
WATCH: Be a better belayer on BMCTV
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