The BMC and Mount Everest Foundation (MEF) support climbing expeditions around the world. View the reports from these expeditions here. From 2000 most reports are downloadable as pdfs.For earlier reports, please contact the office.

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LATEST REPORTS

British Minya Konka Expedition 2018
Region: China
Sub-Region: East Nyanchen Tanglha
Date: 22/09/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/06
Nick Bullock and Paul Ramsden failed to get above 5800m primarily due to the high snowfall experienced throughout the entire expedition. We did however identify the buttress on the south face as one of the very best unclimbed lines in China. Unfortunately, the approach is very long, arduous and hazardous due to the need to climb through two separate ice falls. In the end we decided the mountain was just too dangerous to climb this year due to the quantity of unconsolidated snow and headed home.
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British Kishtwar Expedition 2018
Region: India
Sub-Region: Ladakh & Zanskar
Date: 13/09/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/03
No climbing. Spent 3 weeks in base camp but bailed due to unseasonably early and heavy snow (approx. 1 metre in BC). Persistent mixed weather thereafter. Attempt at Chiring (ca. 6300m) but got as far as the base.
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Kuiluu Expedition 2018
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Kyrghyzstan
Date: 17/08/2018
MEF Reference: N / a
From a high col we climbed what can only be described as the worst hill climb either of us had ever done. The 400m of 45 degree ice with thin patches of windslab took a heart thumping 2 hours to negotiate. We were greeted to an astounding view but this was no place to hang around. After getting a GPS waypoint for the summit, and taking some photos, we descended. Back at the col we celebrated, mission complete! With our final day at ABC, we explored higher up the glacier, identifying potential for further first ascents.
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Karavshin, Kyrgyzstan 2018
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Kyrghyzstan
Date: 19/07/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/14
Expedition to the big granite walls in the Kara-Su and Ak-Su Valleys in the Batken district of Kyrgyzstan. Successful ascents of Yellow Wall, Pamir Pyramid and Slesova Peak. Unsuccessful attempts on Asan and Little Asan.
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Umiak Sailing and Mountaineering Expedition 2018
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: East Greenland
Date: 12/07/2018
MEF Reference: N / a
• Climbed 16, probably, previously unclimbed peaks. o It may be the case that, due to the nature of adventurous expeditioning that these routes may never be repeated as others seek their own new routes and experiences. Hopefully our experiences, and this report will provide some additional information to make it easier for others to enjoy similar adventures. • Reconnoitred a significant part of the East Greenland coast for future mountaineering inspiration. Some of the groups thoughts on future expeditions to the area are as follows: o Primary zones of potential: Milne Land, Liverpool Land (for easiest access by yacht), Kong Oscar Fjord (Adventures by dog sledge), Syltoppen range on south side of Kong Oscar Fjord. o Careful timing required re ice access and best snow conditions for travel depending on planned objectives. • All the team came home safe and with lots of good photos.
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British/Slovene Choktoi/Latok 1 Expedition 2018
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Biafo & Panmah
Date: 05/07/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/11
First ascent of Latok I (7145m) from northern (Choktoi) side, via a variation of the North Ridge.
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CHILING II NORTH FACE EXPEDITION 2018
Region: India
Sub-Region: Ladakh & Zanskar
Date: 03/06/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/19
The expedition was led by Alex Mathie (UK), climbing with Matt Harle (UK). Support staff, in the form of a cook and a high altitude porter were provided by Rimo Expeditions. The expedition spent four weeks (early June { early July 2018) in the Zanskar region, India. The expedition made attempts on Chiling II (6253m) via the unclimbed North Face, and Lalung III (6126m) via the unclimbed East Buttress. Both attempts were repelled by poor weather and unsafe snow conditions.
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Ultar Expedition 2018
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Shimshal & Hispar
Date: 27/05/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/09
The expedition was led by Bruce Normand (Scotland), climbing with Tim Miller (Scotland) and Christian Huber (Austria, resident in the USA). The team had a very successful acclimatisation mission in the Muchuar Glacier basin, sleeping at 5900m and climbing to 6600m, in excellent early-June weather. They arrived in base camp unsupported, due to the dangerous nature of the final 1km traverse, on 14th June. From then until 30th June, the weather was cold, wet and unstable, leading to autumnal snow conditions. In a forecast break in this pattern from 25th June, the climbers ascended to C2 at 5900m on the SE Pillar, but were then pinned down by 4 further days of snow. While waiting out this bad weather, their tent was buried in a small avalanche, in which Huber died and Miller was able to rescue Normand in the nick of time. A helicopter rescue/recovery was executed flawlessly by the Pakistani military.
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Moskus Expedition, The Stauning Alps 2018
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: East Greenland
Date: 17/04/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/17
An expedition of dual purpose: to summit unclimbed mountains in the Staunings Alps, and to conduct scientific research on glaciers in the region. Unsupported and beset with frequent bad weather, this ambitious two-man effort presented an enormous physical challenge at times but, ultimately, proved to be an immensely rewarding High-Arctic adventure.
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British Revelations Expedition 2018 Mt. Jezebel
Region: Alaska
Sub-Region: Central Alaska
Date: 21/03/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/05
The team wanted to explore the Revelation range and climb some first ascents. They had heard from Ben Silvestre and Pete Graham of the Range’s quality and considered objectives on Mt. Mausolus and Mt. Jezebel. Their pilot (Paul Roderick of TAT) landed on the Fish glacier beneath the east face of Mt. Jezebel due to weather conditions. They had an attempt at the unclimbed north face of Mt. Jezebel but bailed due to an ‘unclimbable’ chimney feature. So they focussed on theEast face and climbed a new route on the east face of Mt. Jezebel: ‘Fun or Fear.’ M6+, Ai6 R. 1200m..
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Northern Patagonia Women's expedition 2018
Region: South America
Sub-Region: Chile
Date: 29/01/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/01
Expedition to explore The Avellano Valley and have a good old adventure. Made a successful ascent of the South Face of the Tooth and climbed ‘Aumkenk Aike’ (a new peak!).
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British Shimshal Expedition 2017
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Shimshal & Hispar
Date: 26/08/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/15
The team made a three day walk in from the village of Shimshal to a basecamp site in the valley. After three further days of acclimatising, advanced base camps were established and two first ascents were made. In the First East Gunj-e Dur Glacier, George, Ross and Karim attempted the SE face of Pk 6150. Unfortunately George had to descend from 5500m due to AMS. Ross and Karim carried on to reach the summit ridge. The highest peak on the ridge was unreachable with the current snow pack so they made the first ascent of the nearer peak, naming it Yad Sar (Remembrance Peak) 6015m. Meanwhile Steve and Clay had turned their attention to an unclimbed peak in the Second East Gunj-e Dur Glacier, summiting the day before at 5855m. The team remained in basecamp for a few more days before descending, spending time in Shimshal, Hunza and Islamabad on the return.
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Borkoldoy Kyrgyzstan
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Kyrghyzstan
Date: 05/08/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/17
A successful expedition, the team climbing 14 unrecorded peaks and scoping the entrances to several potential caves. We were also able to recce a couple of rivers for first kayak descents (and decide it wasn’t worth it!) and gather data to contribution to established ornithologic and glacial scientific research projects.
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Trans Andes 2017-2018
Region: South America
Sub-Region: Argentina
Date: 01/08/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/26
6 months of climbing and paragliding in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile.
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Tasermiut Fjord 2017
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: South Greenland
Date: 16/07/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17 / 07
Ascent of War and Poetry, Ulamertorsuaq: and ascent of the Swiss Route on Ketil Pyramid.
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