The BMC and Mount Everest Foundation (MEF) support climbing expeditions around the world. View the reports from these expeditions here. From 2000 most reports are downloadable as pdfs.For earlier reports, please contact the office.

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LATEST REPORTS

British Revelations Expedition 2018 Mt. Jezebel
Region: Alaska
Sub-Region: Central Alaska
Date: 21/03/2018
MEF Reference: BMC 18/05
The team wanted to explore the Revelation range and climb some first ascents. They had heard from Ben Silvestre and Pete Graham of the Range’s quality and considered objectives on Mt. Mausolus and Mt. Jezebel. Their pilot (Paul Roderick of TAT) landed on the Fish glacier beneath the east face of Mt. Jezebel due to weather conditions. They had an attempt at the unclimbed north face of Mt. Jezebel but bailed due to an ‘unclimbable’ chimney feature. So they focussed on theEast face and climbed a new route on the east face of Mt. Jezebel: ‘Fun or Fear.’ M6+, Ai6 R. 1200m..
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British Shimshal Expedition 2017
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Shimshal & Hispar
Date: 26/08/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/15
The team made a three day walk in from the village of Shimshal to a basecamp site in the valley. After three further days of acclimatising, advanced base camps were established and two first ascents were made. In the First East Gunj-e Dur Glacier, George, Ross and Karim attempted the SE face of Pk 6150. Unfortunately George had to descend from 5500m due to AMS. Ross and Karim carried on to reach the summit ridge. The highest peak on the ridge was unreachable with the current snow pack so they made the first ascent of the nearer peak, naming it Yad Sar (Remembrance Peak) 6015m. Meanwhile Steve and Clay had turned their attention to an unclimbed peak in the Second East Gunj-e Dur Glacier, summiting the day before at 5855m. The team remained in basecamp for a few more days before descending, spending time in Shimshal, Hunza and Islamabad on the return.
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Borkoldoy Kyrgyzstan
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Kyrghyzstan
Date: 05/08/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/17
A successful expedition, the team climbing 14 unrecorded peaks and scoping the entrances to several potential caves. We were also able to recce a couple of rivers for first kayak descents (and decide it wasn’t worth it!) and gather data to contribution to established ornithologic and glacial scientific research projects.
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Trans Andes 2017-2018
Region: South America
Sub-Region: Argentina
Date: 01/08/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/26
6 months of climbing and paragliding in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile.
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Tasermiut Fjord 2017
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: South Greenland
Date: 16/07/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17 / 07
Ascent of War and Poetry, Ulamertorsuaq: and ascent of the Swiss Route on Ketil Pyramid.
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Hispar Expedition 2017
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Shimshal & Hispar
Date: 06/06/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/19
Being above 6500m Machu required a permit and we kept a cook/guide and an assistant at base camp. We made two carries to set up an advance base camp on the Machu Glacier at 4760m with only a short difficult section to get onto the glacier. We climbed a 700 meter couloir to get onto the southwest ridge at 5530m. Heavy snowfall enforced retreat, leaving our tent there. We returned and climbed to 5650m in poor snow conditions to find our way blocked by difficult ground to circumvent a rock peak and we went down. Observations from above ABC confirmed that there was no good way along the southwest ridge from where we were to join the col and the west ridge leading to the summit. However two couloirs further up the Machu Glacier appeared to lead close to the col. Unfortunately, snow conditions were not good in these couloirs and we abandoned our attempt.
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Unclimbed Peru 2017
Region: South America
Sub-Region: Peru
Date: 01/06/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/24
Whilst not nearly as successful as we hoped, we managed to give ourselves as good a chance as we thought possible to completing our main objective, without going over the boundary of what we considered to be acceptable risk. In so doing we got to experience and explore some of the most beautiful scenery either of us had ever encountered, and on our second trip, we were fortunate enough to see no other people for a full 8 days, which was especially memorable.
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Gasherbrum IV Expedition 2017
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Baltoro
Date: 29/05/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/09
The expedition was led by Bruce Normand (Scotland), climbing with Billy Pierson (USA). The pair were going to be accompanied by Marcos Costa (Brazil) and Don Bowie (USA), but Bowie cancelled his participation only 2 weeks before the expedition. The remaining climbers therefore worked as a team of 3 throughout. The expedition involved very significant amounts of hard work, preparing the trail for the season through the South Gasherbrum Glacier icefall and breaking a new trail on every move beyond Camp 1 (5 times to C2, 4 to C3, 3 times beyond C3). C2 to C3 involved 7 pitches of low-angle but painful ice. The weather after 26th June was not stable for more than 1 day in a row. When the climbers pushed up onto their route on the East Face, they were blocked immediately (7300m) by a barely climbable polished slab, made impossible by a total lack of protection of any form. The weather did not cooperate for consolation climbs elsewhere in the G3-G4 cwm or on the (still unrepeated) 1958 Bonatti-Mauri route on the NE Ridge. A final effort on “Gasherbrum 4.5” was also closed down by dangerous snow.
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THE BRITISH STAUNING ALPS EXPEDITION, GREENLAND 2017
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: East Greenland
Date: 04/04/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/03
The expedition ventured into unexplored areas of the remote Stauning Alps region in Central-Eastern Greenland. The team were self-sufficient throughout, carrying all kit, food, shelter, scientific instrumentation and travelling on skis, pulling pulks. A huge physical challenge. Objectives were threefold: explore, research and inspire. They also made first ascents of two peak.
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Far West of Nepal Expedition 2016
Region: Nepal
Sub-Region: West Nepal
Date: 24/10/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 17/08
Our primary objective was an ascent of unclimbed 6246m peak in the Humla region in the Far West of Nepal. Our research found to evidence that it had been previouslyclimbed. We reached the base camp via a 4 day trek from Simikot. Exploration of the side valley did not reveal an easy peak or line to acclimatise on so we decided to do this on the peak allowing extras days. A reconnaissance to the edge of the glacier from the North revealed two tent platforms, and some rubbish including some loose polypropolene rope presumed to be for fixed lines. A return to base camp had us returning a day later with kit for an alpine ascent of the North ridge over 4-5 days. We took two days to a camp below the North col. At this point the snow conditions (very dry, deep, loose powder), the extreme cold (-35°C) and a weather forecast of strong winds decided a return to base camp via a slight diversion of a foray on to the start of the North ridge. Here we discovered unhelpful snow and loose steep rock! After a day’s rest we re-ascended to the High Camp to attempt the East Ridge. This was climbed over a further three days, first to a camp close to the East Ridge on the glacier, second a up and down to the summit and a third day to descend to base camp. The glacier was once again hard going through complex crevasses and deep snow however the ridge itself proved to be more consolidated and climbed at approximately AD+. We only found a section of fixed rope low down on the glacier (~5300m) on the first section of crevasses, but none higher up, including the climbing sections of the peak, leading us to believe that this was a first ascent of this summit.
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The British Gokyo Expedition 2016
Region: Nepal
Sub-Region: Khumbu
Date: 03/10/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/16
Attempted Kangchung in a day push from a high camp, but ran out of time approximately 200m from the summit. With no bivouac gear we were forced to return to the camp.
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British West Nyainqentangla Expedition 2016
Region: China
Sub-Region: West Nyanchen Tanglha
Date: 09/09/2016
MEF Reference: MEF 16/07
First ascent of North Buttress and descent of East Ridge of Nyainqentangla South East.
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British Renland Expedition 2016
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: East Greenland
Date: 18/07/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/08
In an exploratory climbing expedition Geoff Hornby, David Barlow, Robert Powell, Paul Seabrook travelled to unexplored/unnamed glacier near Mirror Wall area of South Renland from 18 July-19 Aug 2016 and climbed four new routes including first ascents of two alpine peaks in various styles. The rock quality varied, with all rock routes featuring both excellent and crumbly biscuit granite. This trip demonstrated the huge potential for exploratory alpinism in this remote area.
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Djenghi-Djer Expedition: Kyrgyzstan 2016
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Kyrghyzstan
Date: 15/07/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/05
The aim of our expedition was to explore and climb in a set of unexplored and poorly documented valleys in the Djenghi-Djer mountain range in south-eastern Kyrgyzstan. We decided to travel on horseback for speed and flexibility, and also intended to attempt unclimbed peaks at heights of c.4,000 – 4,700m. The attempt to combine exploring and mountaineering meant, perhaps, that we were limited in both. For example, spending many days at base camps waiting for weather windows to climb meant that the exploration was nowhere near as thorough as the Kyoto inspiration. But as jacks of all trades, it was very enjoyable to combine both these aims. Between July and August 2016, we rode in to the northern valleys of the Djenghi-Djer, explored widely and established four base camps. We made five ascents of peaks up to 4,436m, as well as climbing one prominent point. Of the five peaks, we believe four to be first ascents (one was more accessible and had a cairn on the summit). Two of the peaks were nice Alpine climbs, while three were scree / rock scrambles. Apart from that, the range still has an abundance of prospects for ambitious mixed climbing firsts.
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Cambridge University Pamirs 7000ers Expedition
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Tajikistan
Date: 15/07/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/19
An unsuccessful attempt to climb Peak Communism which also left not enough time or energy to attempt Peak Korzhenevskaya. This meant that the team left the expedition empty-handed in terms of summits, but it was still an incredible experience, and an amazing opportunity to go to a part of the world that very few people ever see, let alone have the privilege to climb in.
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