The BMC and Mount Everest Foundation (MEF) support climbing expeditions around the world. View the reports from these expeditions here. From 2000 most reports are downloadable as pdfs.For earlier reports, please contact the office.




Hispar Expedition 2017
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Shimshal & Hispar
Date: 06/06/2017
MEF Reference: BMC 17/19
Being above 6500m Machu required a permit and we kept a cook/guide and an assistant at base camp. We made two carries to set up an advance base camp on the Machu Glacier at 4760m with only a short difficult section to get onto the glacier. We climbed a 700 meter couloir to get onto the southwest ridge at 5530m. Heavy snowfall enforced retreat, leaving our tent there. We returned and climbed to 5650m in poor snow conditions to find our way blocked by difficult ground to circumvent a rock peak and we went down. Observations from above ABC confirmed that there was no good way along the southwest ridge from where we were to join the col and the west ridge leading to the summit. However two couloirs further up the Machu Glacier appeared to lead close to the col. Unfortunately, snow conditions were not good in these couloirs and we abandoned our attempt.
The British Gokyo Expedition 2016
Region: Nepal
Sub-Region: Khumbu
Date: 03/10/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/16
Attempted Kangchung in a day push from a high camp, but ran out of time approximately 200m from the summit. With no bivouac gear we were forced to return to the camp.
British West Nyainqentangla Expedition 2016
Region: China
Sub-Region: West Nyanchen Tanglha
Date: 09/09/2016
MEF Reference: MEF 16/07
First ascent of North Buttress and descent of East Ridge of Nyainqentangla South East.
British Renland Expedition 2016
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: East Greenland
Date: 18/07/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/08
In an exploratory climbing expedition Geoff Hornby, David Barlow, Robert Powell, Paul Seabrook travelled to unexplored/unnamed glacier near Mirror Wall area of South Renland from 18 July-19 Aug 2016 and climbed four new routes including first ascents of two alpine peaks in various styles. The rock quality varied, with all rock routes featuring both excellent and crumbly biscuit granite. This trip demonstrated the huge potential for exploratory alpinism in this remote area.
Djenghi-Djer Expedition: Kyrgyzstan 2016
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Kyrghyzstan
Date: 15/07/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/05
The aim of our expedition was to explore and climb in a set of unexplored and poorly documented valleys in the Djenghi-Djer mountain range in south-eastern Kyrgyzstan. We decided to travel on horseback for speed and flexibility, and also intended to attempt unclimbed peaks at heights of c.4,000 – 4,700m. The attempt to combine exploring and mountaineering meant, perhaps, that we were limited in both. For example, spending many days at base camps waiting for weather windows to climb meant that the exploration was nowhere near as thorough as the Kyoto inspiration. But as jacks of all trades, it was very enjoyable to combine both these aims. Between July and August 2016, we rode in to the northern valleys of the Djenghi-Djer, explored widely and established four base camps. We made five ascents of peaks up to 4,436m, as well as climbing one prominent point. Of the five peaks, we believe four to be first ascents (one was more accessible and had a cairn on the summit). Two of the peaks were nice Alpine climbs, while three were scree / rock scrambles. Apart from that, the range still has an abundance of prospects for ambitious mixed climbing firsts.
Cambridge University Pamirs 7000ers Expedition
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Tajikistan
Date: 15/07/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/19
An unsuccessful attempt to climb Peak Communism which also left not enough time or energy to attempt Peak Korzhenevskaya. This meant that the team left the expedition empty-handed in terms of summits, but it was still an incredible experience, and an amazing opportunity to go to a part of the world that very few people ever see, let alone have the privilege to climb in.
Gulmit Tower Expedition 2016
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Hindu Kush
Date: 05/06/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/14
We abandoned our attempt on Gulmit Tower only reaching 4480m in the icefall because a) A major rock fall hit our base camp. One rock came through Pete’s tent and hit him a glancing blow on the head. There was no other suitable site for base camp. b) We could not find a good route after two attempts through the chaotic icefall which was exposed to falling rock and ice. c) The couloirs on our two planned possible routes on Gulmit Tower appeared to be more exposed to avalanches and rock fall than anticipated. We moved our base camp to the Moorkhun valley, which was not far away. We attempted the first ascent of Pregar 6112m (height from the Soviet map) by the south face. Our first attempt reached 5500m before we were stopped by crevasses. On our second attempt by a different line at alpine AD on the south face Pete reached within 20 metres of the summit but turned back due to dangerous snow conditions while Aiden waited in support at about 5700m.
Gangstang 2016 Expedition
Region: India
Sub-Region: Himachel Pradesh
Date: 27/05/2016
MEF Reference: MEF 16 / 31
The primary aim of this expedition in May and June 2016 was to make the first ascent of the NW Ridge of Gangstang (6163m) in the Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh, India. Gangstang lies near the Chandra-Bhaga River and is normally approached from Keylong (3350m) for the Voie Normal (SW Ridge) from the Gangstang Glacier. However, for this expedition we approached from the road head of Nainghar further to the west. The expedition consisted of two British climbers, one Indian Liaison Officer, an agent guide, a chef, and a chef’s assistant. The expedition was blessed with excellent weather with a usual pattern of late afternoon and very early morning mist, drizzle or snow and fine days. Because of the good weather window, the expedition was able to acclimatise and achieve its objective in short order.
Vishnugarh Darh 2016
Region: India
Sub-Region: Garhwal
Date: 21/05/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16/22b
This expedition was intending to explore unclimbed mountains in a reasonably accessible range between Joshimath and Badrinath, in Garhwal, Uttarakhand, India. The ridge is called the Vishnugarh Darh (Vishnu’s Fortress), south of the Panpatia Glacier, which is to the south of Nilkanth. All the peaks are under 6000m, and most are attractive in their pointy-­‐ness and in the fact that they won’t require all the hassle of permits, liaison officers and their concomitant costs.
British Hunter Foraker 2016
Region: Alaska
Sub-Region: Central Alaska
Date: 02/05/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16 / 06
We split our expedition into two parts, the first intending to attempt new routes from the Thunder Glacier, and the second acclimatising on Denali’s west buttress before climbing the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker. We were unsuccessful on the Thunder Glacier, with poor snow conditions and high levels of objective danger preventing all but one attempted line. We succeeded in making the 10th, and 1st british, ascent of the Infinite Spur. We encountered generally poor weather, with very few days of clear good conditions, having only one window of good weather which we used to climb the Spur.
British Chamlang 2016 Expedition
Region: Nepal
Sub-Region: Khumbu
Date: 08/04/2016
MEF Reference: BMC 16 / 11
We traveled to Nepal in spring 2016 with the main aim of attempting the unclimbed North Ridge of Chamlang, 7,314m. Prior to attempting Chamlang we acclimatized on Ama Dablam in the Khumbu Valley, summiting via the standard route, the South West Ridge. Unfortunately, the conditions and weather we experienced on Chamlang were far from ideal and we were not successful with an ascent of the North Ridge, returning home just over a week early.
Sheffield Patagonia Expedition 2015
Region: South America
Sub-Region: Argentina
Date: 26/12/2015
MEF Reference: BMC 15 / 04
On Boxing Day 2015, Matt Burdekin, Polly Harmer and I flew from Manchester to El Calafate via Buenos Aires. After a 5 hours bus journey down dusty roads we eventually arrived in El Chalten, the small town nestled beneath the mountains of Cerro Torre and Fitzroy. Over the next five weeks we would make four trips into the mountains, attempting Fitzroy twice and making ascents of the Comesaña-Fonrouge on Aguja Guillaumet, the Austrian Route on Aguja de l’S and the first ascent of new a line Aguja Bifida Sur. This was probably the third ascent of the mountain.
Khumbu new routing, Nepal 2015
Region: Nepal
Sub-Region: Khumbu
Date: 15/10/2015
MEF Reference: BMC 16/01
After acclimatising on Lobuche East we attempted Kangshung (6061m) but were thwarted by unseasonable new, unstable snow. We then attempted the unclimbed North-East face and North ridge of Kyajo Ri (6186), climbing approximately 700m of new ground and reaching 5900m before a dropped rucksack forced retreat. We rounded off the trip with three days of icefall climbing in the Machermo Khola, finding good steep ice and the potential for longer Scottish style gully lines.
Kosmos 2015 Expedition
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Kyrghyzstan
Date: 25/08/2015
MEF Reference: BMC 15/26
After deciding that climbing Kosmos was too much of a gamble. We started to scope out other possibilities in the area, including the north-west face of Pik Dankova. Heather and Emily both explored the small eastern glacier of Point 5013 and Harry and Mike successfully climbed a new mixed route up the East face of Point 5190 - a summit that we nicknamed the Fortress, which was in fact first climbed by Paul Knott and Vaughan Snowdon in July 2015 from the Western side.
Katkar Nala 2015 Expedition
Region: India
Sub-Region: Ladakh & Zanskar
Date: 17/08/2015
MEF Reference: BMC 15/27
We sought to plan and execute everything independently; to pursue Alpine style / mixed snow and rock routes; and to summit some of the remaining enticing Zanskar peaks. In August 2015, we arrived to find that all the bridges and the main road connecting the Tsarap river villages had been washed away completely by floods two months earlier. After a longer walk in than expected, we established a high base camp, explored, and made a first ascent of Sgurr a Mhadaidh Fuar (‘L5’) at 5,897m.
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