How to spot a bad bolt when sport climbing
You're cranking it out, going for the onsight. But what's in the rock, stopping you from hitting the deck? The UK and abroad have an assortment of bolts; from old to new, hand-made to manufactured. Can you tell the difference and climb safely?
It looks fine, just clip it…
Bolts used in climbing come in two main types, mechanical bolts or resin anchors. Bolting happens on a voluntary basis in the UK and is often also unregulated overseas. Strength and reliability of bolts can therefore vary massively depending on the skill of the equipper, the quality of the equipment installed, and how well suited it is to the environment. Learn what to look out for to stay safe.
Mechanical bolts
Mechanical bolts work by expanding or compressing a collar that grips and presses against the wall of the bolt hole. Generally mechanical bolts are only suitable for medium to hard rock. There are many types, some safer than others, so it's good to be familiar with what they look like so you can make safe choices before you end up passing one at increasing speed.
If you see a thread with a nut holding a plate hanger, then it's the most common expansion bolt. Found in either 10mm or 12mm bar diameter, these are often a good bolt to clip to. If you see a bolt head with no thread then, depending on the diameter, this will either be a caving 'spit' (13mm spanner size) or a sleeve bolt. The caving spit is the scary one as it enters the rock by a measly 15mm; sleeve bolts are often OK. Be aware of loose, spinning hangers and if there is any visible corrosion or movement of the bolt, consider it carefully before trusting it.
Resin anchors
Modern resin anchors are far superior to most mechanical bolts but some older ones, especially some U-shaped "staples" can be dangerously weak. Most modern designs are usually P-shape with a leg which is pushed into a resin-filled hole. The resin sets and holds the anchor in place, offering great strength and longevity when done correctly. Softer rock types can be safely bolted by using longer and longer length bolts where necessary. Evidence on corrosion and any movement when pulled or twisted are signs to be wary of. Anchors worn through by top roping can also be a danger.
Location, location
A bolt is only as good as the rock it is placed in. As well as the bolt, look at the rock around where it is placed. Rock can decay over time and once solid rock can become loose so take a good look around. Bolts closer than a spread hands width to cracks, overhangs and edges should also be treated cautiously
Corrosion and materials
Knowledge and understanding of appropriate materials for bolts to withstand natures ravages have greatly improved over time. Many older bolts are therefore made from what would now be considered subpar materials. The standard material for bolts and anchor materials including lower offs is 316 stainless steel and its variations. In most circumstances this is a perfectly good material and most UK bolts are made from this material unless they are extremely old.
Whilst corrosion can happen anywhere, the greatest problems occur in warm coastal regions including popular overseas holiday locations and here this material may not be adequate and instead titanium bolts may be required. Titanium resists one of the most dangerous forms of corrosion, Stress Corrosion Cracking which not only is prevalent in hot, coastal conditions, but is also almost impossible to spot in practice.
Do your research
As well as using your eyes and wits when actually climbing, some advance preparation is very worthwhile. Research the crag in advance – when was it bolted, by whom and with what? Is there an active bolt fund who maintain some or all of the area? Have bolt failures been reported in the past? Often more popular and accessible sectors have had some attention and it’s the less frequented routes which hold the most risk, but finding out as much as you can before leaving the ground is always a good choice.
Expert Q&A
Dan Robinson lives in Cumbria and is head of Real Adventure, running adventure and education bespoke residential courses, technical skills training and SPA / ML courses. He holds the MIC and is Chair of the Cumbria Bolt Fund.
Q. Who is responsible for the bolts at a crag?
A. In general, nobody. As a climber, it is your own responsibility to check that any bolts or lower offs that you rely on are secure. Never assume that it's safe just because it's a sport route.
Q. Can I tell if a route is safe before leaving the ground?
A. No, but you can build up a picture. The guidebook may indicate when the route was equipped and with what. Some areas have Wikis with info on specific routes. You may be able to get a good look at the type and condition of some of the bolts, and their spacing, before setting off.
Q. What if I reach dubious-looking bolts when leading?
A. With luck you'll have been scoping things out from below and aren't too committed. Down climb to the last good bolt to retreat. If you don't want to leave a good quickdraw behind, carry a cheap 'bail biner' and swap over to that before lowering off.
Q. What if the lower-off is worn or damaged?
A. This can be a real problem in popular areas. Always top rope on your own quickdraws or carabiners, with the last person cleaning the route. If the lower-off is badly worn, make a judgment call. If it is worn more than a third through, don't rely on the damaged parts. This may mean having to retreat using the last bolt. Don't assume all parts of the lower-off are strong enough to clip into: there are some Heath Robinson affairs around which could give you a nasty surprise.
BMC Bolting Hub
Our bolts advice hub covers the need to know information that climbers need to assess the safety of an outdoor sport climb. It also is where you can find the guide to current good practice for choosing and installing bolts, covering all of the important issues which must be addressed in order to do this competently and with the correct equipment.