Paris 2024: McNeice Flying in Fifth

Performance News
10 Aug
5 min read

Bursting onto the scene in 2024, 20-year-old Erin McNeice has cemented herself as one of the world’s best climbers. Qualifying for the finals in seventh, McNeice proved she was a force to be reckoned with.

Climbing Boulder 1 one with composure, she secured the high zone on attempt 2. Winding up for the jump, she stuck the top taking a near perfect score of 24.9.

On Boulder 2, a tricky slab problem, McNeice delivered one of the standout moments of the competition. She became the only athlete to flash the problem, reading the route perfectly to the top. Defending Olympic champion Janja Garnbret could only take the top on her third attempt.

Boulder 3, known for its power demands, proved to be a significant challenge for McNeice who failed to take points alongside home-crowd hopeful Oriane Bertone.

Despite struggling to crack the final hold, McNeice managed to secure both the low and high zones on Boulder 4, ultimately timing out just shy of completing the climb. Chaehyun Seo of Korea took the highest score on this problem with 9.8 points.

McNeice finished the Boulder round joint fourth on 59.5. With third only 0.2 ahead and sixth the same behind, the fight in the Lead for the likely bronze medal was wide-open.

Erin McNeice in the Women's Boulder & Lead final. Image: IFSC, Lena Drapella, Jan Virt

After a tentative start, McNeice fought her way up the wall, showcasing the strength and confidence she had built from her earlier successes in the Olympic Qualifying Series. She finished with a Lead score of 68.1, bringing her combined total to 127.6 and fifth-place, a fantastic achievement.

Rachel Carr, GB Climbing Coach, said: "She really showed today that she is fighter with immense potential. We knew coming into the round that a podium was possible but that it would need the right set and a perfect performance. It might not have worked out this time but she definitely put in a performance to be proud of.

"A huge effort for her considering where she was ranked at the start of the year. She certainly wins the prize for most improved."

Janja Garnbret become two-time Olympic Champion with a score of 168.5 points. Brooke Raboutou of the USA take silver and Jessica Pilz of Austria took the bronze.

Erin McNeice hugs two time Olympic Champion, Janja Garnbret. Image: Team GB

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