Report: Combined and Speed IFSC World Championships 2018

Posted by Peter Burnside on 21/09/2018
Will Bosi smiles at the crowd during the Lead semi-finals. Photo: Liam Lonsdale

The Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck promised to be a competition of epic proportions from start to finish. 10 days of competition, spanning 11 days in total; hundreds of athletes; three different venues; and four disciplines (lead, speed, bouldering and a combined format final) ensured that anyone in attendance would not be short of action.

The GB Climbing Team sent Emily Phillips, Jen Wood, Molly Thompson-Smith, Hannah Slaney, Nathan Phillips, Will Bosi, Billy Ridal, Jim Pope, Dave Barrans, and Aidan Roberts to the competition.

Day one and two of the competition saw Lead qualifications taking place at the famous Kletterzentrum Innsbruck, followed by semi-final and final rounds the following days at the ‘main’ venue, Olympiaworld. Challenging routes and a huge number of competitors made qualifying for semi-finals a very tough prospect. For the full report, use the link below.

READ: Brilliant performance from GB athletes at IFSC World Championships

After a day of rest, it was time for the Speed competition taking place again at Olympiaworld. A number of our athletes took part in order to try and qualify for a place in the Combined Format competition. Will Bosi and Billy Ridal competed in the Men’s, placing 50th and 83rd respectively out of 110 athletes, while Jen Wood represented us in the Women’s event and came in 70th out of 89 competitors.

Following the conclusion of speed, in which Reza Alipourshena (IRI) and Alexandra Rudzinska (POL) took the gold medals, it was back to Kletterzentrum Innsbruck for the Bouldering qualification rounds for two days before again retiring to the main stage for the semi-finals and eventually the first World Championship event featuring a Combined Format (Olympic format) final. Use the link below to find out the results of the Bouldering event.

READ: Brilliant performance from GB athletes at IFSC World Championships


Nathan Phillips mid-air on the tricky M2 dyno in finals. Photo: Liam Lonsdale

The final event of the IFSC World Championships 2018 was the Combined Format where only the top six ranking athletes overall would compete. Only three British athletes had participated in all three of the disciplines: Will Bosi, Billy Ridal and Jen Wood. With semi-final placings for Will and Billy in Lead and Bouldering, respectively, they ended up ranking in the Combined format at 20th for Will, and 39th for Billy out of 87 athletes. Meanwhile, Jen Wood performed well across all three disciplines to place 51st out of 67 women.

Since there were no British athletes in these positions it was left to the rest of the world to battle it out. Janja Garnbret (SLO) and local favourite Jakob Schubert (AUT) fought hard after a long and exhausting competition spanning almost 11 days, topping the podiums to become World Champions in the combined format. 

Speed results

Men

1st: Reza Alipourshena (IRI)
2nd: Bassa Mawem (FRA)
3rd: Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)

50th: Will Bosi (GBR)
83rd: Billy Ridal (GBR)

Women

1st: Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL)
2nd: Anna Brozek (POL)
3rd: Mariia Krasavina (RUS)

70th: Jen Wood (GBR)

Combined results

Men

1st: Jakob Schubert (AUT)
2nd: Adam Ondra (CZE)
3rd: Jan Hojer (GER)
4th: Kai Harada (JPN)
5th: Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
6th: Kokoro Fujii (JPN)

20th: Will Bosi (GBR)
39th: Billy Ridal (GBR)

Women

1st: Janja Garnbret (SLO)
2nd: Sol Sa (KOR)
3rd: Jessical Pilz (AUT)
4th:  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
5th: Miho Nonaka (JPN)
6th: Petra Klingler (SUI)

51st: Jen Wood (GBR)

WATCH: The replays on the IFSC YouTube channel


 

The GB Climbing Team is supported by the BMC, Mountaineering ScotlandBerghaus, and Rock Over Climbingand the GB Paraclimbing Team is supported by Oakwood Climbing Centre and Quay Climbing Centre. Many UK walls also support the British Climbing Team through free or subsidised entry.

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1) Anonymous
21/09/2018
This comment broke the house rules and has been removed
2) Anonymous User
21/09/2018
You've missed William Bosi out of the team list at the start.
3) Anonymous
24/09/2018
This comment broke the house rules and has been removed
4) Anonymous
28/09/2018
This comment broke the house rules and has been removed
5) Anonymous User
04/10/2018
Why do you censor the comments just because we are asking a perfectly simple question as to where the paraclimbing write up is they got far more medals than the able bodied team
6) Peter Burnside(author comment)
09/10/2018
Hello, the report about paraclimbers was written a few days before this article. You can view it here: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/brilliant-gb-athletes-at-ifsc-world-championships-2018

In regards to the removed comments, they are most often Spam comments or advertising. Hope that helps!
7) Anonymous User
10/10/2018
For some reason comments on the write up of BLCCs has been disabled. Could you please enable them again as I have a query that has been taken down for ‘breaking house rules’ that has mot been answered and I would like to re-pose the question in a way that will hopefully not break house rules.
8) Peter Burnside(author comment)
12/10/2018
Commenter #7, please email your question to: comps@thebmc.co.uk. Cheers

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