Brilliant performance from GB athletes at IFSC World Championships

Posted by Peter Burnside on 17/09/2018
Hannah and Anita take Gold and Bronze. Photo: IFSC / Sytse van Slooten

The past two weeks has been brimming with competition climbing events in Innsbruck at the IFSC World Championships which included a full Paraclimbing programme as well as Bouldering, Lead, Speed and a Combined final. The GB Climbing and Paraclimbing Teams were well prepared resulting in 13 strong performances from athletes in a number of categories, and as such left Innsbruck with five new medals, three of which were gold.

It's been an incredible two weeks for GB athletes, with a number of exceptional performances in the IFSC World Championships. We saw numerous climbers qualifying for semi-finals in both Lead and Bouldering, and a huge medal haul from the GB Paraclimbing Team.

In the Lead event, both Molly Thompson-Smith and Will Bosi made it through to semis, with Molly spectacularly coming 11th in her first competition since recovering from a horrific finger injury in December 2017. Will also pushed hard and high to place 13th alongside a number of top names in the competition climbing world. 

Meanwhile, three athletes made it through to the Bouldering semi-finals, with Hannah Slaney and Billy Ridal both putting in commendable efforts to place in 11th and 20th, respectively. But Nathan Phillips was on fire, topping all four boulders in the semi-final to earn a place in the final amongst the world's best boulderers on the international stage – the first British male to make the finals of a Bouldering World Championships since Dave Barrans in 2009. 

Nathan started perfectly, topping the first boulder with ease after taking a number of attempts to latch the tricky sideways 1-2-3 dyno. He then found things slightly tougher, and managed to earn one more zone out of the next three problems. After an amazing performance he finished in sixth place, his best result ever in an IFSC competition. 

But the best results, and a major medal haul, was saved for the GB Paraclimbing Team. Everyone put in superb efforts to win an astounding five medals and three world titles. The first of the gold medals was awarded to Abbie Robinson in the B2 (visually impaired) category. She said: “I was so relieved to get my finals route done. It was well set and required a proper fight, especially as it got trickier toward the end.

“I actually thought the competitor before me had topped the route, so I had no idea what position I had placed in when I fell. When I realised I was World Champion, well, it was kind of surreal.”

The second world title was achieved by Hannah Baldwin in the women’s RP2 category: “When I looked at the route I knew it would be difficult. My category is merged, meaning although I only use one leg to climb, everybody else in the finals actually climbs with two. Robin (coach) warmed me up specifically for doing the two crux undercut moves in isolation and when it came to it I managed to keep pushing. At the last move I was so pumped I had nothing left and I just jumped for the last hold hoping for a plus point, in the hope it would be enough for a medal.

“Standing on top of the podium is the best feeling.”

Also in the RP2 category was Anita Aggarwal who took a well deserved bronze medal. Meanwhile, Mikey Cleverdon rounded of Saturdays action with a silver medal in the RP3 category.

Sunday saw AU2 superstar Matthew Phillips lining up for his finals and after a tense wait with athletes climbing high on the route before him, it came his turn to make an attempt. Climbing with supreme confidence and skill, Phillips glided with ease to top his route and take a third gold medal for the GB Paraclimbing team.

Matt said: “It’s an amazing feeling, topping on out on such a sustained route. It was truly incredible. The crowd and the atmosphere was wild – the British fans were off the scale. Seriously, they were so loud and they motivated me so much.

“Winning this title means everything to me, it’s the pinnacle of sporting achievements, to be a World Champion. I never thought I’d ever achieve something like this in my life ... and now, well, I can’t quite believe it. When I started climbing my aim was to try and win some national competitions the world championships wasn’t even in my mind and here I am.”

Special mention also goes to Jo Newton, who came heart-wrenchingly one point away from making the final, but still put in an awesome performance to earn fifth place.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

THURSDAY ... WHAT A DAY! Great Britain has TWO new World Champions, a silver medalist and a bronze medalist! @hbaldwin8 🥇 & @abbie.paraclimbing 🥇 are officially the best in the world! Mikey @blochobbit 🥈took second place in his category, and Anita @dazzle_uk 🥉 took a well deserved bronze in hers. Later this afternoon we will see @matthew_paraclimbing compete in the final of his category after a strong qualifier saw him through in first place , best of luck to him🤞🏼. Stay tuned for more @innsbruck2018 action. *** 📝 & 📷: @liamlonsdale ———————————— The GB Para Climbing Team is supported by the BMC, Mountaineering Scotland, Berghaus, Oakwood Climbing Centre, The Quay Climbing Centre and Rock Over Climbing ———————————— #climbinglife #sportclimbing #innsbruck #findyourpeak #klettern #beboundless #borntoinspire #imaginarymagnitude #elevateyourhustle #adaptiveathlete #paraclimbing

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Bouldering results: 

Men

1st: Kai Harada (JPN)
2nd: Jongwon Chon (KOR)
3rd: Gregor Vezonik (SLO)
4th: Keita Watabe (JPN)
5th: Kokoro Fujii (JPN)
6th: Nathan Phillips (GBR)

20th: Billy Ridal (GBR)
33rd: Matt Cousins (GBR)
66th: Will Bosi (GBR)
68th: Aidan Roberts (GBR)

Women

1st: Janja Garnbret (SLO)
2nd: Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
3rd: Stasa Gejo (SRB)
4th: Jessica Pilz (AUT)
5th: Miho Nonaka (JPN)
6th: Petra Klingler (SUI)

11th: Hannah Slaney (GBR)
47th: Emily Phillips (GBR)
74th: Jen Wood (GBR)

Paraclimbing results:

Men AL2

1st: Thierry Delarue (FRA)
2nd: Urko Carmona Barandiaran (ESP)
3rd: Albert Guardia Ferrer (ESP)

6th: Martin Heald (GBR)
11th: Josh Senior (GBR)

Men AU2

1st: Matt Phillips (GBR)
2nd: Trevor Smith (USA)
3rd: Maksim Maiorov (RUS)

Men B1

1st: Koichiro Kobayashi (JPN)
2nd: Matteo Stefani (ITA)
3rd: Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo (ESP)

7th: Jesse Dufton (GBR)

Men B2

1st: Justin Salas (USA)
2nd: Raul Simon Franco (ESP)
3rd: Fumiya Hamanoue (JPN)

6th: John Churcher (GBR)
7th: Richard Slocock (GBR)

Men RP1

1st: Alessio Cornamusini (ITA)
2nd: Korbinian (GER)
3rd: Nils Helsper (GER)

Men RP2

1st: Behnam Khalaji (IRI)
2nd: Nive Porat (ISR)
3rd: Manikandan Kumar (IND)

Men RP3

1st: Romain Pagnoux (FRA)
2nd: Mikey Cleverdon (GBR)
3rd: Gregor Selak (SLO)

5th: Dave Bowes (GBR)

Women AL2

1st: Lucie Jarrige (FRA)
2nd: Kate Sawford (CAN)
3rd: Emily Stephenson (USA)

5th: Joanna Newton (GBR)

Women AU2

1st: Solenne Piret (FRA)
2nd: Melinda Vigh (HUN)
3rd: Maureen Beck (USA)

5th: Isabella Walsh (GBR)

Women B2

1st: Abbie Robinson (GBR)
2nd: Whitney Pesek (USA)
3rd: Tanja Glusic (SLO)

Women RP2

1st: Hannah Baldwin (GBR)
2nd: Marlene Prat (FRA)
3rd: Anita Aggarwal (GBR)

Women RP3

1st: Aika Yoshida (JPN)
2nd: Momoko Yoshida (JPN)
3rd: Elodie Orbaen (BEL)

WATCH: The replays on the IFSC YouTube channel 


 

The GB Climbing Team is supported by the BMC, Mountaineering ScotlandBerghaus, and Rock Over Climbingand the GB Paraclimbing Team is supported by Oakwood Climbing Centre and Quay Climbing Centre. Many UK walls also support the British Climbing Team through free or subsidised entry.

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