Strong Steve McClure – hard climber, new BMC ambassador and all round good guy – was blown away by the massive response on Facebook when we asked for your questions. Here he answers the pick of the bunch.
WINNING QUESTION: Which two first ascents would you have liked to have belayed? Well, firstly, Hubble. This had a massive influence and encircled all my sport climbing – from even before I started to right up to the present time. To go from it being a dream to have actually done it was a massive journey.
And, secondly, Indian Face. This sums up everything in British climbing, and I would love to have belayed it; to feel the tension and be part of the birth of what, in my view, is the most important ascent in the history of British climbing.
Being a BMC ambassador puts you in a very influential position. What do you hope to achieve and contribute to the ever growing world of 'the outdoors', especially the younger generation? Alongside the BMC I’d like to help those entering the sport realise the incredible depth and variety that climbing covers, with the hope that our history and traditions are preserved.
Once we have encouraged the indoor climbers outside how do we manage and reduce the environmental impact on our precious crags? Good question. Some of the local popular crags are being battered already. It would be nice if we could spread the word. Many of our excellent cliffs are being forgotten. We have a duty to provide information and inspiration spread across all our venues. The comprehensive guides are great for this as opposed to the very selective guides.
What's your take on bolting on hard trad? Bolts on trad cliffs have no place at all. I’m very against bolting of trad routes. However, in exceptional cases it may make sense. An example was the bolting of an E6 at Ravenstor in the Peak, an old trad route protected mainly by pegs, that would have been pretty safe at first. The demise of the pegs and the fact that it was pretty much the only trad route on the cliff led to it becoming almost never repeated. The bolting of this route has opened up a now very popular route. This trad route has not been lost really, just become an excellent route for the majority at that crag. In these days where climbing is huge we have to make sure we cater for all, but at the same time hold on to our traditions.
If you could have changed or done one thing differently in your climbing career, what would it be? One thing different? Other than not pulling on a mono after already tearing my collateral ligament in my finger? Starting earlier in sport climbing. I didn’t get going till I was 24. Starting earlier would have made me climb harder – or maybe just got broken earlier…
Can I have your job, please? What do you think my job is? If its going climbing around the world then I’d like that too. If it’s the reality of 30-40 hours a week minimum, regular 15 hour days out of the house and sitting up at 2am writing articles then are you sure you want it? To be fair it’s great, but not a path!!
What question would you like me to ask you? Ask me what my next big project will be!!
Many people have their own personal philosophy on climbing, both as a sport and a way of life. In a nutshell, what is your philosophy on climbing and in a way life? Has it helped shape your climbing career? In a nutshell, climbing has always remained my passion and remained firmly a package surrounding enjoying the outdoors. I’ve always kept climbing apart from work, and my motivations are real and un influenced by any finances whatsoever. But I’m lucky
Have you ever had a climbing related injury, that made you think twice about ever climbing again? With a bunch of tweaked fingers recently that ached every morning I wondered if it was worth pulling so hard now if I was totally busted in 10 years!! A few years of 9a rather than a lot of 8a? A big question. The answer, worry about it tomorrow………
Having recently taken a fall on trad gear and them popping out, apart from practicing to fall indoors what else can I do to gain confidence when climbing over clips and gear again? Fast redpoints. Top rope first, so you have a basic understanding of the route, and know where the holds are, then go for a lead. This will instil a go for it attitude.
What's the single best thing I can do to improve my footwork? Be accurate. Orientate your body so feet can be placed rather than plonked. Buy 5.10, you know they are the best.
I’ve been climbing for about two years now and I can't step up to that next level of grade? How can I get this done? Look closely at what you have been doing. Have you been doing the same stuff for 2 years? If so the body is great at getting used to stuff. Even if you feel ‘worked’ after a session, whatever it is, your body will be used to it and have no need to adapt to change, because there isn’t any.
Most 'critical' climbing moment? For me? – climbing Northern Lights
What’s your favourite duck? The one where the big guys throws a punch
Is climbing better now than it was 25 years ago? I’d say no, I preferred it 25 years ago. It was very raw and undiscovered. It feels kind of tamed and more mainstream now. But in a way its better as there are more places open for us to visit. And indoor walls actually exist.
Is there any training or climbing related advice that you would give to your younger self? Don’t think that the best cure for an injury is to keep on climbing and hope it will go away!!
Are you happy? Wow, that’s a big question. Answer, yes, defiantly, but with enough dissatisfaction to keep me moving forward.
How often have you thought you have seriously bitten off more than you could chew and were in the brown stuff? New routing in Greenland, about 15 pitches up and absolutely in the middle of nowhere I was onsighting a corner which kept getting harder. I committed to irreversible moves way above poor protection, and then, not knowing what was gonna happen above, or even if there was any gear, I just had to keep on going. Then I ran out of rope…
Will you he teach me how to climb like a god in return for unlimited pies from the best butchers in Manchester? Unlimited pies – YES my favourite food. Who ate all the pies, I certainly helped!
What was the route that made you begin to take climbing seriously? Magic in the air – North York Moors, first route I did without parents providing a safety net. I was on my own and in control.
Which climber would you least like to share a tent with? You (Simon Lee) I’d never sleep knowing how you burnt me off on the finger board!
What's your favourite climb that punters stand a chance of climbing? So VS or below... Main Wall, Cyrn Lass
If you could only choose one discipline/genre of climbing, what would it be and why? That’s tough! Best style is long E3s in the mountains. But if I had to choose just one, I’d go for sport, at this time in my life, because it fits so well with the life that I have.
You often describe yourself as 'weak' in comparison to other top climbers. What then do you put your harder ascents down to? I am weak, relatively. Tenacity is king, luckily I have plenty of that. The biggest strength of all.
Climbing hard is about a coming together of many strengths. Physical ‘strength’ I reckon only amounts to a pretty small percentage of overall ability, where ‘strength’ is usually measured by finger and one arm pull up ability. There are tons of physical strengths like fitness and flexibility, but even all of this doesn’t amount to much alongside tenacity, fear control, technique etc etc. My strength is my biggest weakness but luckily its not the most important strength!
What is your personal 'most memorable' climb? Be it for enjoyment, overcoming fear, being right on your limit or just the pure beauty of it. Climbing a multi-pitch sport route (10 pitch) and leading high on the route with a full cloud inversion below, maybe only 20 meters below, burning red in the setting sun and following me up the wall. Just me and the climbing, everything below lost into the mist, stretching out far into the sea way out on the horizon. Even now it brings a tear.
What's your favourite get up and go go juice? Double espresso, black coffee or tea? Redbull. I don’t like any hot drinks, but not on health grounds – obviously!
Steve famously once said his knees were shot from too many deep Egyptians. How are they now? Still hanging in there. One had an operation to trim a meniscus. Deep rock overs are painful now, kneedrops still seem to work, ordered my zimmer frame last week though.
Is there one decision that you've made in your climbing career that you regret the most or got you into the most trouble in the mountains? Thinking I’d not need a headtorch, on numerous occasions! Still, in my defence a headtorch used to be the size of a brick.
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