Last Saturday the 2nd of April 60 climbers attended the BMC SW Area Meeting held in Redruth, Cornwall to discuss fixed and drilled protection and the development of sport climbing in West Cornwall.

Over the years there has been some highly controversial bolting (and other antics!) in the region and the proposals at this meeting were designed to seek some long-term clarity as to the views of the majority of climbers.

The wording of the motions below is in some cases slightly different to that of the agenda, since
a number of clarifying amendments were accepted.

1) Agrees that all new fixed protection is banned on sea cliffs and natural inland outcrops.
It was clarified at the meeting that motion one applies only to fixed protection placements from now on, and does NOT apply to belay stakes at the top of climbs.
CARRIED: 41 For, 8 Against

2) Agrees that all drilled protection is banned on sea cliffs and natural inland outcrops.
No vote taken – since motion 1 was carried

3) Proposes that all fixed protection is removed from sea cliffs and natural inland outcrops and where damage to the rock has occurred and repair is possible, for that repair to be carried out.
NOT carried: 20 For, 21 Against

4) Proposes that all drilled protection is removed from sea cliffs and natural inland outcrops and where damage to the rock has occurred and repair is possible, for that repair to be carried out.
CARRIED: 28 For, 15 Against

If either 3 or 4 are carried, then the meeting will seek to establish a working party in order to achieve this aim. Working party established with Shane Ohly to co-ordinate.

5) Proposes that no further work such as: drill protection slots, the creation of artificial holds by chipping and/or by cement construction and/or cleaning with a drill be carried out.
CARRIED: Unanimously

6) Agrees that climbers may develop sport climbing at certain specific Cornish venues, excluding all sea cliffs, natural cliffs and natural outcrops. The words “sea cliffs” were inserted for consistency with motion 1.
CARRIED: 49 For, 2 Against

7) The principles governing the designation of a sport climbing venue are:
a) whether there are verified and repeated existing trad lines
b) whether there has been a history of sports climbing
c) the BMC SW Area's approval of the use of the venue in question
d) its suitability for sport climbing by comparison to other national sport climbing venues
Proposal to drop this motion was Unanimously Agreed

Any Other Business
After some discussion it was agreed by a large majority that no minimum period need elapse before these issues can be debated again.

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