The BMC has been informed of a serious accident caused by loose rock and the likelihood of further rockfall in the East Gully descent from the Nose of Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass.

On Saturday 23 June three experienced climbers had successfully completed the popular classic route The Cracks on the the Nose of Dinas Mot. They descended by abseil down the East Gully, one of two recommended descent routes from the Nose.

The first person down came across a considerable amount of loose debris, including soil and loose rock, and both he and the second climber both safely descended to the base of the gully. 

However the third person to abseil dislodged some of the loose rock and was hit in the face and head by falling rock, sustaining serious injuries. Fortunately he was using a back-up prusik and was also wearing a helmet. These precautions probably saved his life.

The climbers involved are anxious that other climbers are warned of the state of this gully and that further rockfalls are likely here.

It's possible that both this gully and similar ones in Snowdonia have been affected by the torrential rainfall of recent weeks, with loose rock and debris being washed down these gullies, leaving them in a potentially dangerous state.

For the time being it may be advisable for climbers descending from the Nose area of Dinas Mot to avoid this gully and use the Western Gully instead.

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