Tremadog warning: Updated

Posted by Elfyn Jones on 10/05/2019
Shadrach pinnacle and the "boot flake" visible beneath - avoid!
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BMC has been warned of a very large unstable and dangerous block on the route Shadrach at Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog. It is strongly advised that the routes Shadrach and Brothers are not climbed. This is an update following inspections - do not climb these routes!

Instructors from the National Outdoor Centre at Plas y Brenin have identified a very large loose block below the pinnacle on pitch 2 of the route Shadrach at Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog. This is also shared with the other classic VS route, The Brothers.  It's highly likely that the reported large loose block may be the main support for the even larger pinnacle of Shadrach. 

Until this report can be verified and the rock is formally inspected it is strongly advised that climbers avoid these two routes.  

Update 29 May

On 28 May, the blocks were inspected by professional geo-technical consultant (also a climber). The "boot flake" below the huge pinnacle of Shadrach is fundamentally unstable and could fall if any pressure is put on it (such as placing a cam or even a strong outward pull). This block is approximately 3.5 tons in weight and sits on a sloping shelf. On initial appearance the block seems to be secure but is in fact seriously unstable. However removing this block without also disturbing the huge Shadrach pinnacle is virtually impossible and potentially lethal and with that block weighing in excess of 35 tons and directly above the "boot flake" it's best avoided. Please do not try to do any work here yourselves! 

While highly unlikley to fall spontaneously, these blocks would cause significant damage to this area of the cliff and potentially even impacty on the highway if or when they fall. 

The BMC is now urgently seeking professional advice on the next steps and until the area can be made safe it is strongly advised that people avoid this rea of the cliff. Signs are being placed at the cafe, the base of the cliff and on the approach to the routes. 



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