The BMC Technical Committee investigates reports of equipment failure and publishes the results in these technical reports. Technical notes publish points of interest, not related to a specific investigation.

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MOST RECENT REPORTS

A Fixe lower-off used in an outdoor training area at the National Outdoor Centre, Plas y Brenin broke after being load tested using a chain of karabiners to give it a small shock load. The failure occurred at the weld of the third chainlink from the top hanger. Some light surface corrosion was noted in places, and in addition two chainlinks show evidence of gross material defects which do not appear to have been found during the manufacturer’s inspection procedures.
Category: Other
Result: Notes: All
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCM19/01
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Used and worn karabiners were found to have gates which stuck open, this report investigates why.
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCM1403
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Details of a study into stress corrosion cracking of rock anchors in the UK.
Category: Other
Result: Notes: All
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCN1802
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Report on a bolt failure on a sport route in Sicily.
Category: Other
Result: Reports: Faulty
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCM1801
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Bolt end quickdraw karabiner failed in a sport climbing fall, due to pre-existing wear and an unfavourable loading situation.
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2018
BMC ID: TCM14/02
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Following a lead climbing fall on a sea cliff pinnacle, the single dynamic rope broke most likely due to contact with sharp rock.
Category: Rope
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2017
BMC ID: TCM17/01
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Update to the 2011 bolt anchor tests
Category: Other
Result: Notes: All
Year: 2017
BMC ID: TCN17/01
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A small piece broke off the nose, likely a result of a forging flaw
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Faulty
Year: 2016
BMC ID: TCM13/02
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The helmet was struck by a piece of falling ice. The climber was unhurt but the headband broke at the attachment to the shell.
Category: Helmet
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2014
BMC ID: TCM14/01
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This harness was sent to the BMC by a climbing wall. An indoor climber took a lead fall and a leg loop (right leg) failed (user was not injured in the fall). From general inspection, environmental or solvent degradation of the Black Diamond Blizzard harness is clear. The heavy fading of the belay loop suggests that the harness has been damaged by a solvent/acid and may have been left hanging to dry, which has accelerated degradation on the leg loops. The strength of the fibres near the failed section of the harness have been reduced due to the degradation, and resulted in a failure of tape (connecting the leg loop to the lower tying in point) in an indoor lead fall.
Category: Harness
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2014
BMC ID: TCM12/01
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