The BMC Technical Committee investigates reports of equipment failure and publishes the results in these technical reports. Technical notes publish points of interest, not related to a specific investigation.

SEARCH FOR REPORTS

MOST RECENT REPORTS

A Fixe lower-off used in an outdoor training area at the National Outdoor Centre, Plas y Brenin broke after being load tested using a chain of karabiners to give it a small shock load. The failure occurred at the weld of the third chainlink from the top hanger. Some light surface corrosion was noted in places, and in addition two chainlinks show evidence of gross material defects which do not appear to have been found during the manufacturer’s inspection procedures.
Category: Other
Result: Notes: All
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCM19/01
Download
Research into effectiveness of belay devices
Category: Other
Result: Notes: All
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCN1801
Download
Used and worn karabiners were found to have gates which stuck open, this report investigates why.
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCM1403
Download
Details of a study into stress corrosion cracking of rock anchors in the UK.
Category: Other
Result: Notes: All
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCN1802
Download
Report on a bolt failure on a sport route in Sicily.
Category: Other
Result: Reports: Faulty
Year: 2019
BMC ID: TCM1801
Download
Bolt end quickdraw karabiner failed in a sport climbing fall, due to pre-existing wear and an unfavourable loading situation.
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2018
BMC ID: TCM14/02
Download
Following a lead climbing fall on a sea cliff pinnacle, the single dynamic rope broke most likely due to contact with sharp rock.
Category: Rope
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2017
BMC ID: TCM17/01
Download
Update to the 2011 bolt anchor tests
Category: Other
Result: Notes: All
Year: 2017
BMC ID: TCN17/01
Download
A small piece broke off the nose, likely a result of a forging flaw
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Faulty
Year: 2016
BMC ID: TCM13/02
Download
The helmet was struck by a piece of falling ice. The climber was unhurt but the headband broke at the attachment to the shell.
Category: Helmet
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2014
BMC ID: TCM14/01
Download
BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »