The BMC Technical Committee investigates reports of equipment failure and publishes the results in these technical reports. Technical notes publish points of interest, not related to a specific investigation.

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MOST RECENT REPORTS

Bolt end quickdraw karabiner failed in a sport climbing fall, due to pre-existing wear and an unfavourable loading situation.
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2018
BMC ID: TCM14/02
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Following a lead climbing fall on a sea cliff pinnacle, the single dynamic rope broke most likely due to contact with sharp rock.
Category: Rope
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2017
BMC ID: TCM17/01
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Update to the 2011 bolt anchor tests
Category: Other
Result: Notes: All
Year: 2017
BMC ID: TCN17/01
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A small piece broke off the nose, likely a result of a forging flaw
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Faulty
Year: 2016
BMC ID: TCM13/02
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The helmet was struck by a piece of falling ice. The climber was unhurt but the headband broke at the attachment to the shell.
Category: Helmet
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2014
BMC ID: TCM14/01
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This harness was sent to the BMC by a climbing wall. An indoor climber took a lead fall and a leg loop (right leg) failed (user was not injured in the fall). From general inspection, environmental or solvent degradation of the Black Diamond Blizzard harness is clear. The heavy fading of the belay loop suggests that the harness has been damaged by a solvent/acid and may have been left hanging to dry, which has accelerated degradation on the leg loops. The strength of the fibres near the failed section of the harness have been reduced due to the degradation, and resulted in a failure of tape (connecting the leg loop to the lower tying in point) in an indoor lead fall.
Category: Harness
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2014
BMC ID: TCM12/01
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Although severely worn, the degree of wear is most probably due to water and grit carried on the surface of the rope creating an abrasive action resulting in the wear seen.
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2014
BMC ID: TCM 07/02
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A climbing rope broke during top roping use. The damage is consistent with contamination of the rope by sulphuric acid.
Category: Rope
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2013
BMC ID: TCM13/01
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A Wild Country Technical Friend 1.0 and Wild Country Technical Friend 0.5 both failed a routine inspection and the owner sent them for examination. Both cams appear to have failed due to bending fatigue in their cables. These cases emphasise the importance of regular inspection of all climbing equipment. Users should also be aware that if equipment is used heavily, it may not last as long as the manufacturer’s estimated life span.
Category: Mechanical adjustable chocks
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2013
BMC ID: TCM 12/09
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This karabiner failed following a fall by a lead climber. The failure mode of the karabiner is consistent with the sling attached to the protection being hooked in the nose of the karabiner holding the gate open and loading it inappropriately.
Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse
Year: 2013
BMC ID: 05/08
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