2020 Olympic Games and 2018 Youth Olympic Games format

Posted by Rob Adie on 13/03/2017
New wall under construction in Austria for the 2017 World Youth Championships - Selection event for the YOG 2018 - Photo - Austria Climbing

Hosted by Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC) and the Fédération Québécoise de Montagne et d’Escalade (FQME), this year’s IFSC Plenary Assembly meeting brought together about 100 delegates representing 41 National Federations to prepare for 2017 and discuss key topics for our sport.

“The Olympic Format is the outcome of a long process inside the IFSC and outside with the International Olympic Committee various components,” said IFSC Sport Director Jérôme Meyer. “We are looking forward to the next steps of this process and our continued collaboration with the IOC. We know that both Olympic Games will be unforgettable moments for our sport.”
 
At the meeting the following was agreed regarding the format for the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020 and the Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires 2018.

The qualification principles for 2020 Olympic Games will be published by the IOC in July 2017 so certain points like the exact number of qualification slots to come from each of the qualification events will be confirmed in July.

However the following principles on the format of the event and the qualification have been confirmed:-

Format

  • One medal for men and one medal for women will be awarded to the Combined event winners.
  • The format of the OG event must represent the existing disciplines and rules.
  • The IFSC Events Combined shall be the same as the OG Combined format.
  • The discipline sequence is: First Speed, then Bouldering, then Lead.
  • The OG Combined Event will consist of 2 rounds (Qualifications and Finals), both comprising all the disciplines.
  • All Athletes (20 men and 20 women) participate in the first round.
  • The OG Combined Event will be most likely be 4 days of competition in the following sequence (TBC by the IOC):-

o   Day 1 – Speed Qualification

o   Day 2 – Boulder Qualification

o   Day 3 – Lead Qualification

o   Day 4 – Finals – All disciplines – Speed, Boulder, Lead

  • There will be equal scoring for all three disciplines.
  • The Athlete’s score is given by multiplying the Athlete’s ranking (place) in each discipline. The lower the score the better.
  • A ranking is produced after each round (Qualifications and the Finals).
  • The six best Athletes qualify for the Finals.
  • Men and Women Finals may not necessarily be run in the same day.

Qualification

  • Quotas are allocated to Athletes and not to National Olympic Committee/National Federations.
  • A maximum quota per National Olympic Commitee/National Federation will apply, proposed: 2 per gender.
  • Eligible Athletes may be those having a valid IFSC license at the time of the OG.
  • Re-allocated quotas will be given through the relevant OG qualifying events, following the IOC guidelines.
  • At the IFSC Plenary Assembly the National Federations agreed that all athletes should qualify through an Olympic Combined format event.
  • Athletes shall qualify through the following events:-

o   2019 IFSC World Championships Combined

o   IFSC Continental Championships Combined

o   Possible additional Olympic Qualification Event in 2019 and/or 2020

o   2019 IFSC World Cup Overall Combined – TBC - these athletes will most likely qualify to compete in the additional selection events which will be OG combined format.

  • Extra OG format combined events will be added to all qualification events and to all World Youth Championships, World Championships and (possibly Continental Championship) events between 2017 and 2020.

2018 Youth Olympic Games Qualification Principles

  • One medal for men and one medal for women will be awarded to the Combined event winners.
  • Athletes who qualify will be Youth A athletes in 2017.
  • All Athletes (20 men and 20 women) participate in the first round.
  • Qualification period will be 2017 and 2018 (spring).
  • Quotas are allocated to Athletes and not to NOCs.
  • A maximum quota per NOC will apply, proposed: 2 per gender.
  • Qualifying events and slot distribution will be as follows:-

o   World Youth Championships Overall Combined – Innsbruck 2017 – 13 men, 13 women – there will be a separate event added to WYCH – 2 days – finals only.

o   Continental Championships Overall Combined – 5 men, 5 women.

o   Host country – Argentina – 1 man, 1 woman.

o   IOC – Universality – 1 man, 1 woman.

  • Due to the European Continental Championships being split between two events i.e. not OG combined format – an additional event will be run in St. Etienne in November in an OG combined format to decide this slot. National Federations will qualify 2 male and 2 female athletes to this event from the rankings of the EYCH overall rankings.

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