Forget the football. This Saturday sees the only World Cup final that really matters: of the 2014 IFSC Boulder World Cup. And in this World Cup, Britain actually stands a chance of winning. If Britain’s Shauna Coxsey beats Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi then we could have our very first Bouldering World Cup winner.
As our team of footballers return empty handed, a much stronger team is preparing to represent Britain in the eighth round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup, taking place in Laval, France this Friday and Saturday.
Nine GB Team members are competing: Dave Barrans, Shauna Coxsey, Leah Crane, Diane Merrick, Tom Newman, Jonathan Partridge, Nathan Phillips, recent British Bouldering Championships winner Michaela Tracy and Jennifer Wood.
“Everyone is in great spirits at the moment,” explained Gaz Parry, GB Team manager, who is also out in Laval. “Shauna is obviously flying; Nathan made his first semi-final last weekend in Haiyang (China), Leah is doing her first event of the year after shoulder problems; and Michaela, Dave and John are still buzzing after last weekend’s British Bouldering Championships.”
All eyes will be on top British hope Shauna Coxsey. Shauna (21), from Runcorn, started this season on good form (coming first at the Climbing Works International Festival and climbing her second-ever 8b in Spain) so expectations were high.
Right from the start, she didn’t disappoint. She opened her account with silver in Chongqing (China) followed by a disappointing dab on the mat costing her first place in Baku (Azerbajan). Grindelwald saw gold, swiftly followed by another gold in Innsbruck, silver in Toronto, a fifth in Vail and, finally, a silver in Haiyang, China last weekend.
This string of results means that the women’s Boulder World Cup has now evolved into a two-horse race: Shauna versus Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi. To win, and claim the title of Bouldering World Cup winner, Shauna needs to finish in the top three – and beat Akiyo.
If Shauna wins, she will be the very first overall British Bouldering World Cup winner. Time to ask her just how she felt about the weekend:
How do you feel now with the last event coming up?
I’m pretty much determined to give it everything I’ve got at this stage. I feel good, strong and my frame of mind is pretty healthy. I’m psyched.
Aren’t you always?
Not always. In Vail I didn’t feel a hundred percent and I think that showed in my results. So it’s nice to be feeling totally ready for this weekend’s event – the big one.
Do you fancy your chances of winning?
I’ve not thought about it in those terms to be honest. I’m just going to go climb my best and hope to enjoy it, the same as I always do. I’ve not paid that much attention to the results. It’s best not to worry about it.
Have you enjoyed the 2014 World Cup season?
Yeah, I have, but it’s been a really intense time. It’s been the busiest season ever: eight World Cup events in 11 weeks, with two in China. It’s been pretty tiring and I’ve felt a lot of pressure. Having said that, it’s been a great season, and great for me to finally start winning, so a lot of it is my own pressure. Also, as time goes on, I think I’ve become quite good at dealing with pressure. It doesn’t bother me that much.
How do you think the competitions, and your success, have been received?
It seems to me that they are getting bigger and bigger. More people than ever seem to be tuning in and paying attention, which has been great. Whenever I go to the wall people are always congratulating me and wishing me luck. My social media has been going bananas, and people have been really positive on Facebook and Twitter. It’s really nice to have that input from people out there. It’s meant a lot.
After England did so poorly in some football World Cup, do you think your performances can re-inspire the nation in this, the real World Cup?
I hope so. With all the support I’ve been feeling towards the closing stages of this season, I feel that I’m climbing for Britain as well as for myself. No pressure then!
Thanks Shauna - and good luck!
Shauna is also a BMC ambassador
WATCH: Shauna's video diary
Shauna Coxsey's World Cup Video Diary: Part 1 from team_BMC on Vimeo.
SUPPORT: Shauna on Twitter
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