Last year Toby Roberts became the youngest Brit to climb 8a: he ticked the Malham classic, Raindogs, aged ten. When a gap from winning comps and half-term loomed simultaneously, Toby started looking around for a new hard, classic British project – Revelations at Raven Tor.
Spurred on by being told Revelations was “really heightist,” he set off to bed down in Tideswell for the week with dad in tow. It turned out the rumours were true, and after watching some videos of people climbing Revelations, Toby realised he couldn't use the same sequence that taller people did.
Undeterred, he came up with with his own that uses twice the number of moves through the crux. We managed to ask Toby and his dad a few questions before they headed out the door for more climbing.
Toby's dad, Tristian, commented: "Guided by the short time since seeing Toby first visit a climbing wall to winning in Europe, and becoming the youngest Brit to climb the grades he has, I personally think the biggest thing to happen in climbing is the Olympics, which will increase its reach massively. This will lead to better all-round athlete programs that will transfer to greater improvements outside – similar to how well British cycling is doing."
"From above the crux, the rest of the route feels like a nice 7c so I used it as a warm-up. "
Toby: The first time I tried Revelations I knew I wanted to climb it. I first went to Raven Tor with Mark Croxall and Danie Rushmer from Craggy Island, the climbing wall in Guildford where I train, earlier in the year. It was still quite wet so we did some bouldering. I knew I wanted to come back and climb some of the routes.
I worked the route over half-term. Luckily we had a two-week holiday so I didn’t have to rush and I took rest days when Dad made me.
When I was working the route lots of people were really supportive, including Jim Pope who made me an extended brush on a stick to make it easier to clean the holds. William Bosi was really encouraging just after he sent Hubble, too.
From above the crux, the rest of the route feels like a nice 7c so I got that in one session then used it as a warm up. I was confident that if I got through the crux I would be able to go on and tick the route, although the first time this happened in a combination of pump and excitement I dropped a move.
I had about 12 sessions on Revelations in total. The crux took me about five sessions in total to work out because the moves were so tiring. It was really hard. The way taller people do it is a font 7c boulder problem but I had to work out a different way, and I feel my sequence may be a little harder. It then took about another five sessions to link everything and finish the route.
The biggest low was not being able to repeat any of the moves in the crux when I felt I had worked out the sequence.
The biggest highs: it was the first ever route I've done where I could use a knee-bar! My mum also made me my favourite banana cake for every trip! Sending the route was the best feeling.
"I just like getting to the top and I don’t like unfinished projects!"
My next project is Hubble. I saw William Bosi climb it and thought I would love to give it a go. You can never set your heights too high! I would also like to try Mecca (8b+) at Raven Tor. I generally want to climb a lot more harder routes that do not take as long to project. I really like power endurance routes but I am happy to try and climb anything.
I was really happy to have climbed such a difficult and demanding route and to be the smallest and youngest person to have climbed it.
Tips? Feet and body position are really important through the crux. If you get through the crux then don’t blow it like I did because then you can’t believe what just happened. Also: train really hard, don’t complain about the conditions!
READ: More about Toby's ascent on his blog .
WATCH: Toby climbing Raindogs:
VIDEO
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