British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden will set off in mid-September to attempt a first ascent of the north face of Hagshu (6,515m) in the East Kishtwar region of the Indian Himalaya.

Hagshu is to Kishtwar what the Matterhorn is to Zermatt.  According to the latest Indian survey, it is the highest peak in East Kishtwar, and after numerous attempts it was first climbed (twice) in 1989.  Despite many attempts since, there have been no further ascents.  The north face remains unclimbed and is renowned as a major outstanding mountaineering challenge in that part of the Himalaya. 

During over 30 years of expeditions, Mick Fowler has many first ascents to his name and is a two time winner of the Piolet d’Or.  He has a full-time job and fits in his climbing trips around the work he does for HM Revenue and Customs. 

For Hagshu, Fowler has assembled the same team that was successful on Shiva in 2012.  He will be accompanied by regular expedition partner Paul Ramsden, with Steve Burns and Ian Cartwright also climbing and providing essential back up.

Former Alpine Club president Mick Fowler comments:
“I first spotted Haghsu when making the first ascent of nearby Cerro Kishtwar in 1993 and was reminded what an eye catching peak it is last year while on Kishtwar Kailash with Paul.  This spectacular north face is now a plum objective in that part of the world and we are very pleased to have been promised a permit to attempt it by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation.”

In the late 1980s/early 1990s, the north face of Hagshu was the target of several expeditions led by John Barry, ex SAS mountaineer and one time head of Plas-y-Brenin.  The high point of these trips was about half way up the face.  Regional political troubles effectively prevented access between 1993 and 2010.  Hagshu has been attempted at least three times since then with no success.

Mick and Paul's expedition is being supported by Berghaus and the Mount Everest Foundation. 

Find out more: 

News from the expedition is likey to be reported aroung 12-13 October.  Keep an eye on www.berghaus.com

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