Proper British trad climbs with proper British pubs at the bottom of them. Five locals let you in on their favourite trad-pub combos: Andy Nelson covers Scotland, James McHaffie the Lakes, Calum Muskett Snowdonia, Niall Grimes the Peak District, and Mark Glaister the West Country.
The Clachaig and The Clearances
By Andy Nelson Visit the pub: www.clachaig.com Scottish Rock - South
"Two icons: one a world-renowned pub, the haunt of the established and the aspiring; the other an old school Extreme Rock tick, and not for the faint-hearted. Either can precede the other. A night in the pub with a late start will be fine on a crag that receives sun only at the end of a summer's day. Conversely, having climbed high on the North Face of Aonach Dubh, a night sampling the many fine ales and single malts at the Clachaig is just reward for establishing oneself as a Glencoe climber."
The North Face of Aonach Dubh. Photo: Andy Nelson
Gimmer Crag and the Old Dungeon Ghyll
By James McHaffie Visit the pub: www.odg.co.uk Buy the guidebook: Langdale by Max Biden
"A classic Lakeland one is to go to Gimmer Crag or Raven then down to the Old Dungeon Ghyll in Langdale. It's a good old school pub where you might be lucky enough to see Dave Birkett drinking and playing his guitar. Some of the best climbs in the Lakes combined with a good pint in a great setting."
Gimmer Crag. Photo: Sean Kelly
Cloggy and Gallt-y-Glyn
By Calum Muskett Visit the pub: gallt-y-glyn.co.uk Buy the guidebook: North Wales Rock by Ground Up
"There are few better climbing-pub combinations than a day spent spent on Clogwyn du'r Arddu beneath the summit of Snowdon, followed by a pizza and a pint at the Gallt-y-Glyn on the outskirts of Llanberis. Cloggy is a crag for a hot day, being mostly north-facing and, after a day of walking to and from the cliff, as well as sampling the delightful climbing, there's nothing better than sitting down, cold beverage in hand and tucking into a pizza. You can even choose a seat that has views back onto the cliff."
Cloggy. Photo: Siobhan Miller
Stoney Middleton and the Moon
By Niall Grimes Visit the pub: www.themooninn.com Buy the guidebook: Peak Limestone North by Niall Grimes, Gary Gibson and Ian Carr (pub. 2015)
"Stoney may not draw the world's best climbers any more, and gone are the days when unwashed dossers spent their dole money on half pints of orange juice. These days most climbers are sessioning sport climbs on Garage Buttress and The Moon makes its money on monkfish scampi. But the polished routes are still as tough as ever, and beer is still beer. So go on: get pumped, get drunk."
Stoney Middleton. Photo: nectarclimbing.com
Haytor and The Rugglestone
By Mark Glaister Visit the pub: www.rugglestoneinn.co.uk Buy the guidebooks: South West Climbs: Vol: 2 – CC, Pat Littlejohn West Country Climbs, Mark Glaister
"High up on the western perimeter of Dartmoor, Haytor is one of the South West's great outcrops; its two granite summits have some brilliant single and multi-pitch routes from VDiffs to E grades, with usually reliable protection. Nearby is one of Dartmoor's finest pubs: The Rugglestone Inn at Widecombe in the Moor. Head for the church and locate the discrete sign that will point the way to the inn's many delights including cask ale, amazing food, a picture postcard location and gorgeous beer garden replete with brook and ducks."
Haytor. Photo: Sean Kelly
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