BMC Dual Showdown Climbing Competition 2025

The BMC Dual Showdown Climbing Competition will incorporate strategic route selection while ensuring fair and engaging scoring. It also features an individual ranking system and an optional team component to encourage wider participation. The Dual Showdown offers the opportunity to enter as either an individual or a team.

Who can compete?

Youth C (U15) 2012/2011

Youth D (U13) 2014/2013

Youth E (U11) 2016/2015

Cost

Cost £50 for both days, £25 for one day. There are low income places that would be half price.

Event Overview

Day 1: Bouldering

• 20 boulder problems available, categorised by difficulty
• Athletes select 8 problems to attempt
• Problems are assigned different point values based on difficulty
• Each attempt is still tracked (fewer attempts = better ranking)

Boulder point system:

Easy | Top points: 5 | Zone points: 2

Medium | Top points: 10 | Zone points: 5

Hard | Top points: 15 | Zone points: 8

• Athletes earn points based on successful tops & zones
• If two athletes have the same score, attempts count as tiebreakers

Day 2: Roped Climbing

• 6 lead/top rope routes available, categorised by difficulty
• Athletes select 4 routes to attempt
• Scoring is based on highest controlled hold, with harder routes rewarding more points

Roped Route Point System:

Easy | Difficulty Points for Top: 50 | Route Bonus for High Hold: 2 per extra hold

Medium | Difficulty Points for Top: 75 | Route Bonus for High Hold: 3 per extra hold

Hard | Difficulty Points for Top: 100 | Route Bonus for High Hold: 5 per extra hold

Athletes can strategically choose easier routes for consistency or harder routes for higher potential scores

Scoring & Rankings

Individual Scoring System

Each discipline is scored separately, then normalized to create an Overall Score.

Bouldering Score Calculation

• Total points from selected 8 problems
• Higher difficulty = higher score potential
• Tiebreakers:

1. Fewer attempts to reach total score

2. Most tops

3. Most zones

Roped Climbing Score Calculation

• Sum of points from 4 selected routes
• Higher holds = higher score

Tiebreakers:

1. Most tops across selected routes

2. Highest scoring single route

Overall Ranking Calculation

· Final Score = (Bouldering Score + Lead Score) / 2

· Both disciplines contribute equally

Team Element

Team Format

• Teams consist of 3-6 athletes
• Minimum 3 team members must contribute scores
• If competing as a team, you will need to bring a belayer

Team Scoring

• Best 3 individual scores from each discipline contribute to the team total

Why use difficulty-based points?

• Encourages strategic route selection - athletes choose risk vs. reward
• Levels the playing field for boulderers vs. lead climbers
• Rewards versatility while keeping the format fair