Current BMC guidebooks

Posted by Niall Grimes on 14/06/2007
the fabulous Prow at Wilton 1

A brief introduction to the BMC's range of rock climbing guidebooks to the Peak District.

Peak Limestone North

ISBN 9780903908382

Shines brighter than a Stoney foothold.

The definitive torch shines its light on the great limestone crags of the northern Peak. Stoney Middleton, Horseshoe Quarry, Water-cum-Jolly, Chee Dale, Raven Tor, Blackwell Dale, Smalldale, Harpur Hill and many more. Sport climbs. trad climbs, bouldering.

What do you fancy? Airy trad leads high above the valley at Stoney Middleton; technical, vertical sport climbing on Horseshoe Quarry’s classic walls; savage lakeside bouldering on Rubicon; out-of-the-way grade sevens on Water-cum-Jolly’s Moat Buttress and Cornice; history-heavy pumpfests battling up Raven Tor’s mighty walls; getting groovy on Chee Tor’s ferny-but-flawless Extremes; going for one more redpoint in the evening light on Two Tier Buttress; power-draining undercutting in the shady cool intensity of Chee Dale’s Cornice; bridging big space as the ravens circle close on a Ravensdale VS; rattling off a dozen leads in three hours at Harpur Hill; drenched in the late sun of an August evening on Smalldale’s fantastic Main Wall.

Peak Limestone North: it’s all in there.

Download a sample or buy from the BMC shop online.

 

Froggatt to Black Rocks
ISBN: 978-0-903908-09-2

The new testament for the finest eastern crags.
 
A definitive guide to all routes and bouldering in the southern reaches of the eastern edges. This book takes all the great features of the recent BMC series and makes them bigger and better to give a truly bumper and breathtaking guide. Produced in full colour throughout and featuring some of the best climbing photography yet seen in a guide.
 
The descriptions are the product of years of dedicated research by the area’s most committed locals. Combine all this with a fresh and entertaining presentation and you will have the only guide you will ever need for these crags.
 
Crags covered: Froggatt, Curbar, Yarncliffe, Baslow and Tegness, the Gardom’s area (Gardom’s, Birchen, Chatsworth), the Cratcliffe area (Cratcliffe, Robin Hood’s Stride, Stanton Moor, Rowtor), the Matlock area (Black Rocks, Duke’s Quarries, Robin Hood’s Quarries, Shining Cliff, Secret Garden) and the Amber Valley (Turning Stone Edge, Eastwood Rocks, Cocking Tor).
 
First edition 2010
536 pages, full-colour
2,200 climbs , 1,100 boulder problems
members £20; non-members £24
 
 
Over The Moors
ISBN: 978-0-903908-24-5
 
The definitive guide to moorland gritstone

The upland gritstone crags that ring the mighty moorlands of Kinder, Bleaklow and the Chew Valley are some of the most noble outcrops in the land. Where jagged adventures, breathtaking scenery and sublime routes meet to give the wildest climbing on gritstone. And all within a few miles of the big northern cities.

It’s all here. Yawning edges to while away perfect summer days, century-old chop routes, deep green chimneys. Crashed bombers, purple heather-clad hillsides, the cry of the curlew. It hardly seems right that such remoteness can be so close to the traffic jams of Manchester and Sheffield.

This guide details all the crags from the Chew, Kinder and Bleaklow areas in one volume. Coverage stretches to the Glossop and New Mills areas with their numerous quarries and secret outcrops as well as to the Saddleworth and Oldham areas.

Featuring: 3,800 routes from Mod to E9; 200 boulder problems from V0– to V10; 90 full-colour action shots; The definitive climbing history of the area

 
Crags covered:

Kinder, Wimberry, Shining Clough, Standing Stones, Ravenstones, Pule Hill, Shooter’s Nab, Laddow, Rollick Stones, Upperwood Quarry, Rob’s Rocks, Wilderness Rocks, Den Lane, Running Hill Pits, West Nab, Hobson Moor, New Mills Torrs

First published 2012
 
 
Lancashire Rock 
ISBN: 0-903908-82-4
 
A deep dark definitive guide to the deep dark quarries. 
 
A definitive guide to all rock climbs in the Lancashire area, from the quarries and edges of the gritstone area in the south, to the limestone escarpments in the north. Many of the crags are within easy reach of Blackburn, Bolton and Rochdale and provide an invaluable resource for climbers in these areas.
 
Crags covered: Wilton 1, 2 and 3, Anglezarke, Hoghton, Craig y Longridge, Brownstones, Trowbarrow, Egerton, Witches, Fairy Steps, Hutton Roof, Woodwell
 
First edition 1999. Reissued in revised form in 2006.
536 pages, 2 colour with full-colour action pictures
3,200 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, limestone traditional routes
 
 
 
Stanage 
ISBN: 978-0-903908-0-85
 
The queen’s new clothes.
 
A definitive guide to the crag known as The Queen of Grit. Detailing all the routes and all the bouldering along the three miles of this magnificent crag, it is the definitive guide to anyone climbing on the crag. Exhaustive information is supplemented by superb action shots and full-colour topos. This guide features, for the first time in a British guide, sets of bouldering circuits, set out in grade ranges along the crag. Also features a personal selection of five favourite routes from over 40 climbers.
 
Crags covered: Stanage, Carhead Rocks
 
First published 2007
388 pages, full colour throughout
2,400 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering
 
 
 
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond
ISBN: 0-903908-77-8
 
From Bamford to Banff, the award-winning guide that will bring a smile to your face.
 
A definitive guide to the gritstone edges near the city of Sheffield, covering routes and bouldering. An award-winning guide that combines exhaustive research and detailed information with inspiration and entertainment, as well as great historical information.
 
Crags covered: Burbage Valley, Higgar Tor, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Rivelin, Bamford, Derwent Edge, Wharncliffe, Agden Rocher, Stannington Ruffs
 
First published 2006
388 pages, full colour throughout
3,000 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering
 
 
 
Staffordshire Grit: The Roaches 
ISBN: 978-0-903908-18-4
 
The bumper-fun guidebook that will bring untold pleasure to any toilet visit. 
 
The tremendous crags of the Western Edges get the BMC treatment in this well loved guidebook. It was the first in the latest series of guides from the BMC and really set the standard for those to follow. Fun, inspiration and information are all dealt out in equal measure. Written by the most committed local activists, you will be finding new adventures between the covers of this beautiful book for years to come
 
Crags covered: The Roaches, Hen Cloud, Ramshaw, Baldstones, Newstones, Windgather, Castle Naze, Bosley Cloud, The Churnet Valley, ERF Rocks
 
First published 2009 
400 pages, full colour throughout
2,400 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering
 
 
 
From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill 
ISBN: 0-903908-72-7
 
Gary’s Kwality Kwarries.
 
A guide covering mid-grade sport climbs in the Buxton and Matlock areas, with routes mainly in the F6a to F7a grade range.
 
Crags covered: Horseshoe, Hall Dale, Intake, Devonshire Buttress, Blatant Buttress, Blackwell Halt, Smalldale, Harpur Hill
 
First Published 2004
144 pages, full colour throughout
750 climbs, limestone sport routes
 
 
 
 
Peak Limestone – Wye Valley 
ISBN: 0-903908-22-0
 
A two-part behemoth that covers, amongst other routes, Behemoth.
 
A definitive guide to the limestone crags along the banks of the River Wye, in the Buxton area of the Peak District. The guide covers both sport and traditional climbs in the three main areas – Chee Dale, Miller’s Dale and Water-cum-Jolly – and also comes with a separate volume covering the rich history of the area.
 
Crags covered: Long Wall, Two Tier, Blackwell Halt, The Embankment, Max Wall, The Cornice, Chee Tor, Plum Buttress, Raven Tor, Rubicon Wall, Central Wall
 
First published 1999
540 pages, 2 colour with full-colour action pictures
1,700 climbs, limestone traditional routes, limestone sport routes
 
 
 
Peak Limestone: Stoney
ISBN: 0-903908-11-5
 
Polished horrors have never sounded so good.
 
This survivor from the old series of Peak Limestone guides still gives all the information you will need to explore the masses of great traditional limestone climbs in the Stoney and Castleton area. Classics lie left, right and centre in this guide, and still present as much of a challenge as they ever did.
 
Crags covered: Stoney Middleton, Stoney Quarry, Ravensdale, Staden Quarry, Cavedale, Aldery Cliff, Cucklet Delf
 
First published 1986
284 pages, black and white with colour pictures
1,800 climbs, limestone traditional routes, limestone sport routes
Price: Members £8.00, non-members £9.95
 
Over The Moors 
ISBN: 978-0-903908-24-5
 
The definitive guide to moorland gritstone

The upland gritstone crags that ring the mighty moorlands of Kinder, Bleaklow and the Chew Valley are some of the most noble outcrops in the land. Where jagged adventures, breathtaking scenery and sublime routes meet to give the wildest climbing on gritstone. And all within a few miles of the big northern cities.

It’s all here. Yawning edges to while away perfect summer days, century-old chop routes, deep green chimneys. Crashed bombers, purple heather-clad hillsides, the cry of the curlew. It hardly seems right that such remoteness can be so close to the traffic jams of Manchester and Sheffield.

This guide details all the crags from the Chew, Kinder and Bleaklow areas in one volume. Coverage stretches to the Glossop and New Mills areas with their numerous quarries and secret outcrops as well as to the Saddleworth and Oldham areas.

Featuring: 3,800 routes from Mod to E9; 200 boulder problems from V0– to V10; 90 full-colour action shots; The definitive climbing history of the area

 
Crags covered:

Kinder, Wimberry, Shining Clough, Standing Stones, Ravenstones, Pule Hill, Shooter’s Nab, Laddow, Rollick Stones, Upperwood Quarry, Rob’s Rocks, Wilderness Rocks, Den Lane, Running Hill Pits, West Nab, Hobson Moor, New Mills Torrs

First published 2012
 
 
On Peak Rock
ISBN: 0-903908-91-3
 
A quirky workhorse that’s good to gallop.
 
A real workhorse of a guide, with functional and all-encompassing coverage of the vast range of crags in the Peak District. No other guide comes close to the breadth of routes that this contains. Detailing all the Eastern and Western Edges, the Kinder and Bleaklow areas, Chew and Longdendale, Buxton and Southern Limestone, all in one bumper volume. As well as this there are endless quirky additions to the guide, such as celebrations of esoterica that bring a special and lovable character to the book. The essential visitor’s guide.
 
Crags covered: Stanage, Froggatt, Curbar, The Roaches, Hen Cloud, Ramshaw, Chee Dale, Water-cum-Jolly, Raven Tor, Dovedale, Beeston Tor, Manifold Valley, High Tor, Wildcat, Willersey, Upper Tor, Nether Tor, Kinder Downfall, Shining Clough, Upperwood Quarry, Tintwistle Knarr, Stoney Middleton, Rivelin Edge, Wharncliffe, Cratcliffe Tor, Bamford, Gardoms, Birchens, Black Rocks, Burbage, Dobb Edge Pinnacle.
 
First edition 1993. Reissued in revised form in 2003.
416 pages, 2 colour with full-colour action pictures
1,500 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering, limestone traditional climbs, limestone sport routes
 

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01/07/2013
Do you have a schedule for future guidebook publications? e.g. when the next Stanage guide will be published?

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