Bold new route by Iranians on Broad Peak

Posted by Lindsay Griffin on 20/07/2013
Broad Peak from base camp. The Iranian team climbed the snow-covered rocky spur on the far right, then continued left along the snowy crest, to join the Normal Route below the prominent V-shaped col left of the main summit. Adam Bielecki - Polish Winter Broad Peak expedition

A small Iranian expedition has climbed new terrain on the southwest side of Broad Peak. While the line is not independent, the top section appears difficult and committing.

A much larger Iranian team first tried this line in 2009. It begins well to the right of the Normal Route, climbing a southwest facing rocky rib to reach the crest of the south-southwest spur at 6,226m.

This appears to be the same spur that the Mexican Carlos Carsolio climbed solo, and in alpine style, in 1994, though Carsolio climbed much of it on the right flank, whereas the Iranians are likely to have followed the crest more diligently.

Carsolio found difficulties of UIAA V and 70°. The Iranians overcame a 30m overhanging loose rock step, and towards the top a section of 75° ice.  They fixed 1,600m of fixed rope.

Above, the crest of the spur becomes a knife-edge with gendarmes, features that Carsolio mentioned in his description and which gave him some trouble. Above a snow dome at 6,290m the spur merges with a large inclined glacial plateau, which rises steadily to join the Normal Route at 6,800m.

Carsolio reached the Normal Route but was forced down by inclement weather. He descended the Normal Route, only to return by this line later and solo a new route to the summit.

The Mexican moved right from the standard Camp 3, climbing steep mixed terrain and hard rock directly to the Foresummit. From there he traversed easily to the main top. He self-belayed the difficulties, and close to 8,000m made multiple attempts on a strenuous grade V diedre before finally succeeding.

In 2009 two of the Iranian team, following Carsolio's lower route across the plateau, reached the standard Camp 3 at around 7,000m but altitude sickness forced them down.

Immediately prior to this Iranian attempt the rib had climbed in alpine style by French Ludovic Giambiasi and Elizabeth Revol. They reached the crest of the spur in two days, but large amounts of early season snow made onward progress too dangerous.

This year there were only five members in the Iranian team. Following the same route as the 2009 expedition, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarabi reached Camp 3 and left for the summit on 13 July.

Their plan was to traverse out right on a lower line than that followed by Carsolio, then slant across mixed terrain and snow to reach the main summit directly.

It proved difficult. The three made a bivouac (with tent) at 7,350m, and the following day could climb no more than 100m to a second bivouac at 7,450m.

From there they made better progress, bivouacking again at around 8,000, before reaching the summit on 16 July, with plenty of time left that day to reverse the Normal Route to Camp 3.

But it was not to be. Despite communicating that they were in reasonably good shape on the summit, they made two more bivouacs before reaching the 7,900m col (on the Normal Route below the Foresummit) on the 18th.

At the time of writing it appears they are still in the vicinity of the col, but with no food or water, no shelter as their tent had been blown away, totally exhausted and with one member in a poor state, they are unable to move any further.

A full scale rescue has been implemented but the first attempt, by two Pakistan high altitude porters, trying to reach the climbers directly from Camp 3, failed.

This report will be updated after the weekend



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16
1) Anonymous User
20/07/2013
we hope that they will return.
2) Anonymous User
21/07/2013
Many congratulations............To Group..& Mr.Baba zadeh & Ramin Shojaei..
We are waiting for you.........we hope that they will return.
3) Anonymous User
21/07/2013
please update this. we are waiting for good news from braod peak.
4) Anonymous User
21/07/2013
we cross our fingers for them
5) Bijan
21/07/2013
There is almost no hope to find them alive, Mojtaba Jarahi and Pouya Keyvan appear to have already passed away, Aidin Bozorgi yesterday called Tehran and no news since then. He seemed from his voice and the way he talked to be in pretty bad health condition. Fingers crossed to finding Aidin alive.
6) Anonymous User
22/07/2013
any updates?
7) Anonymous User
22/07/2013
They are hero . We hope them to be rescued.
8) Anonymous User
22/07/2013
More detailed information here.

http://theiranproject.com/blog/2013/07/21/broad-peak-new-route-iranian-climbers-complicated-descent/
9) Anonymous
22/07/2013
This comment broke the house rules and has been removed
10) Anonymous
22/07/2013
This comment broke the house rules and has been removed
11) Anonymous
22/07/2013
This comment broke the house rules and has been removed
12) Anonymous User
22/07/2013
brave men
13) Anonymous User
26/07/2013
RAIN DROPS WE ARE TO THE OCEAN WE RETURN ,
CLOUD PARTICKLES, SCATTERED WE ARE TO HEIGHTS WE RETURN.

BLESS YOUR SOULS
Brave Young Ones.
Darius.
14) Anonymous User
26/07/2013
This is jeff(jmd):
Dudes,u r brave & always alive in the Iranian history.
15) Anonymous User
26/07/2013
R.I.P eagles! You achieved something that everyone believed it would be possible but you believed in yourselves and did it. In this tragedy no one is responsible other that the Iranian federation who didn’t support this independent ambitious team and after they stopped the search for the bodies the federation said due to sanctions against Iran we were unable to request the search sooner! Liars!!!!

16) Anonymous User
05/08/2013
Now Iran knows Broad Peak and Broad Peak knows Iran, From now on people will call Broad Peak's toughest route with Iran's young heroes; Mojtaba, Pouya and Aidin.

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