"I was sandbagged into the onsight flash!" Climbing has evolved a whole lexicon to explain the various styles of ascent. Here's what it all means.
Prior knowledge of almost anything about a climb. With the advent of climbing forums, beta cheater guides, how-to articles, and dvds, onsight ascents are becoming increasingly difficult to claim.
To claim an ascent, often a first ascent or early repeat, without actually having done the climb.
Regaining your highpoint after a fall by pulling up on the rope. Often used in conjunction with dogging.
To make an ascent without practice (but perhaps with Beta) and at the first attempt without falls. Opinion is divided as to what constitutes Beta. To some people, even knowing a route’s grade makes the ascent a flash rather than an onsight.
A non-specific term usually applied to an ascent or an attempt which doesn’t conform to the accepted style for a particular climb. Frigging often involves some form of assistance from the rope. Also a mild expletive.
(aka Dogging): Falling or resting on protection, often repeatedly, in order to work out a sequence of moves.Not to be confused with something else.
A traditional route which is led after (toprope) practice, sometimes with pre-placed protection. The traditional equivalent of a Redpoint.
To make an ascent at the fi rst attempt without falling and without any prior knowledge. Sometimes referred to as "proper climbing".
An archaic term, now obsolete, which formerly differentiated a Redpoint from one where the quickdraws were pre-placed.
To ascend a sport climb without falling or resting, after previous attempts or practice. Quickdraws can be placed whilst climbing or pre-placed.
To deliberately underrate the difficulty of a climb in order to appear superior to other climbers or to encourage others to attempt a climb, knowing they will fi nd it harderthan you described it. Surely this never happens?!
To climb with the belay rope secured from above. For some the ultimate evil.
A style of ascent whereby the climber lowers down after falling, but leaves the rope pre-clipped at the highpoint, and then re-ascends.
Dogging, headpointing, pinkpointing, redpointing, toproping, or yo-yoing a climb, and then claiming you flashed or onsighted it.
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