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ACCESS & CONSERVATION

Use of pegs in British climbing - BMC position statement

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02/02/2015

In situ pitons (pegs) can be found on many sea cliffs and inland crags in the British Isles. In most cases pegs have been used to provide protection on rock with limited natural protection and where bolts have not been an acceptable option. Avon Gorge, Wintours Leap, Pembroke, North Devon & Cornwall and Gogarth are examples of venues where pegs are common. This article provides an update on the BMC's position on pegs in British climbing as agreed by National Council on 6 December 2014.
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GEAR

Fixe snow anchors and pickets recalled

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29/03/2011

The Catalan equipment manufacturer Fixe has circulated a recall notice involving certain batches of its snow anchor (Deadman type) and snow picket (Stake type) products. Owners are recommended to stop using any affected products and to contact their retailer or the manufacturer.
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ACCESS & CONSERVATION

Dangerous bolts at Chudleigh

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27/07/2010

Reports have surfaced this week of some or all of the lower-off bolts being partially chopped at the area of Chudleigh known as the North Face.
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ACCESS & CONSERVATION

Frogsmouth Quarry Restoration Day (FROGSQUaD)

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21/01/2010

The last BMC North West Area gathering decided to give the legendary Frogsmouth Quarry (Runcorn) a good going over and restore it to its previous glory. Now, thanks to the work of Goi Ashmore, Colin Struthers and John Haslam, Halton Council and the local rangers have given us the go-ahead.
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GEAR

How to stay safe on the North Devon coast

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17/12/2009

Rotting fixed gear, missing pegs, guide books out of date, no stakes to be found for belay stations and dirty routes that no one wants to climb anymore. Not the conditions I've been used too after living on the Costa Blanca for eight years. Just what has happened to one of the most spectacular areas of climbing Britain has to offer?
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ACCESS & CONSERVATION

North West summer newsletter 2009

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14/07/2009

The gates of The Mighty Hoghton have swung open for the summer...now might be a good time to go for a look.
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GEAR

The stakes are high...

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27/04/2009

The stakes are high, if you don't check what you're belaying to. Just how solid is that old piece of angle iron at the top of your favourite quarry?
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ACCESS & CONSERVATION

Strawberry Rocks faces de-bolt.

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11/09/2008

Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (DWT) have requested the bolts which recently appeared on this obscure Chee Dale buttress are removed for ecological reasons.
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ACCESS & CONSERVATION

Avon fence 'getting damaged'

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09/07/2008

A note of caution for Avon climbers.
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ACCESS & CONSERVATION

Bolts in South Wales: where, when and why

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20/03/2008

The South Wales Action Group (S.W.A.G.) have organised a gathering for your delight and delectation in mid April. The theme of the evening is bolts...their place in the region, their reason for being there in the first place and plans for the future.
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