Are you a Fanatical Guidebook Collector?

Posted by The BMC on 06/02/2012
Just part of Geoff Milburn's guidebook collection.

Do you frequent second-hand bookshops and are you in possession of some rare pamphlet rock climbing guidebook which you jealously guard and show only to your closest friends? If so then read on.

In 1971 George Bridge produced a Bibliography of Rock Climbing Guidebooks in the British Isles and this was later updated by Jill Neate in 1986 within a Bibliography of Mountaineering Literature. Sadly though there were many gaps and errors owing to information about rare pamphlet guidebooks being hard to track down.  Some guidebooks were produced only for members of a club. Since then several dedicated guidebook collectors have diligently searched bookshops and websites in pursuit of rare items in order to enhance their collections.

More recently an extensive project has been in operation to compile a definitive 'Bibliography of British and Irish Guidebooks' which the BMC is soon to publish after the project has been completed. On each page the format will show pictures of the front covers of nine guidebooks which will be accompanied by full details of each one. The book is arranged to show the main areas such as: Scotland, Wales, Ireland, the Peak District etc.

View the sample chapter - South Wales

With the help of the major clubs so far over 1,000 guidebooks have been identified and even at this late stage new entries are still coming in. In Ireland alone with the enthusiastic help of local climbers the number of known guidebooks has nearly doubled to over 100. As this project is unlikely to be updated in the foreseeable future it is hoped that this publication will be as close to being definitive as humanly possible. If you are in possession of any rare guidebook particularly in pamphlet form please if possible send full details (front cover scan, dimensions, number of pages, photos diagrams etc) to Alan Moss at climbingguidebook@yahoo.co.uk

We have also compiled a list of ‘missing’ guidebooks which we are desperately trying to locate to obtain details.

Many thanks for your interest in the hope that you may turn up a long forgotten guidebook which has so far eluded us.
 



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9
1) Anonymous User
14/02/2012
I've sent your PDF to a couple of collectors / sellers and they did find some items to complete the list. Will be in touch, no doubt.
2) Anonymous User
14/02/2012
I note that in Wales you are looking for 4 guides by K McCullum. I refer you to Peter Gillman's article on the subject of this man and urge caution over his guidebooks.

http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2007_files/AJ%202007%20131-136%20Gillman%20Controversies.pdf
3) Anonymous User
16/02/2012
Given the reputation of the author I don't think anyone is about to go and use them! It must be noted that McCallum isn't the only writer in that list with dubious practices against their name. However, I do think that these volumes in particular would be absolutely fascinating to read - I would just love to see them if anyone out there has copies sitting in an attic somewhere.
Andy Newton
4) Anonymous User
26/02/2012
Do you have the esoteric "Guide to Heighleigh Quarry"? Published by Keele University MC in the 1960s, the quarry is soft sandstone hidden in woodland near the M6. I had a copy but I've lost it!

Dave Roberrts
5) Anonymous User
26/02/2012
Dave,

Yes thanks we have a copy of Heighley Quarry, Phil Gibson provided the details about 8 weeks ago.

Mossy
mOSSY
6) Anonymous User
26/02/2012
Andy,

I agree I would love to be able to read the MacCallum guides even thought they have been throughly discredited.

There a note added to each of the biblio enry's to the effect 'dont trust this guide'.

I have just been contacted by someone who has one of them, I have asked if he is willing to create an pdf for me. If you email me I will pass it on (assuming I get a copy)

Mossy
7) Anonymous User
23/03/2012
The missing guidebook to Frogsmouth quarry probably has the date wrong. John Victory was active at Pex Hill and Frogsmouth in the 1970's when he was in his twenties. I climbed a little in Frogsmouth in the 60's and 70's . There was no evidence of prior use. So the date of the guide is probably 1974.

Rick Newcombe.
8) Anonymous User
14/06/2012
Rick,

Thanks for the update I had adjusted the bibilo in line with your comments - it's great getting comments from 'those that were there'.

Alan
9) Anonymous
05/01/2014
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