Tremadog Revival

Posted by Mike Raine on 14/11/2006
The clean up gang

Inspired by the work of Irish climbers at Fair Head, motivated by the Crocker led changes to Cheddar and Wintours, North Wales climbers have been stirring to re-claim our routes from the undergrowth on Bwlch y Moch.

Emerging from the BMC backed North Wales Climbers Action Group (NWCAG) the idea to spend a day cleaning routes at Bwlch y Moch emerged. After discussion with conservation bodies, crag owners and the National Park a clean up day was organised this November. 21 climbers, 17 routes and one black eye!

Climbers from as far afield as Norfolk and Chesterfield congregated at Eric's Caff. Armed and deadly with secateurs, saws and rubber gloves they strode off into the undergrowth to reclaim what was once ours. Some returned too soon battered, brambled and bleating about route directions. They were, of course, sent off again with new instructions and in some cases were led by hand (kicking and screaming) into the jungle! All went well apart from one errant stone which failed to penetrate Stefan's helmet but faired better with the rebound onto his cheek!

In fact much fun was had by all, and a major step forward was taken. The following routes are now fully clean and ready to be climbed again: The Neb, Neb Direct, Anagram, Final Exam, Grotto, Grotto Direct, Tremudrock Finish, The Mongoose, Emily Street, Brother Direct and Smarter than the Average Bear. Other routes will need a little more work but inroads have been made into: Kestrel Cracks, The Jackal, Slipway, Solitaire, Crazy Diamond, Borneo, Mr. Ranger and the Clapton's Crack approach pitch.

Your move: The next time you are climbing here do your bit. You have full licence to trim or remove brambles and Ivy.

Our Move: The BMC will arrange for a tree surgeon to come and remove some trees and prune others; this should happen this winter and will significantly open up the bottom of the crag to the sunshine. The National Park is  to renew the summit fence and the BMC will organise a new ladder for the Belshazzar Gully.

Join in: Of course you want to! Look out for the Tremadog climbing festival next Spring. Entry will be by removing bramble new growth, there will be prizes, beer, slides  and dancing. See you at the Tremadog Climbing Festival!

Pant Ifan and the other crags: "What's going on there?" you might well ask. Well, nothing yet but watch this space; the BMC have recently taken over the management of the crag and some de-vegging will be required next year. The site is a little more sensitive environmentally being a SSSI, So don't go ahead under your own steam just yet. Watch this space for more happenings...Castell and Gesail won't be far behind.

The tea and cakes for the day were kindly sponsored by Eric.
 



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