Qualifications explained

Posted by Jonathan Garside on 01/01/2020

An introduction to the qualifications administered by Mountain Training for walking, climbing and mountaineering leaders, instructors and coaches.

Established in 1964, Mountain Training has grown and changed greatly over the years. There are now five training boards overseeing national and international walking, climbing and mountaineering award schemes.

1. Indoor Climbing Assistant

This scheme is designed for people who want to support qualified instructors with climbing sessions on artificial structures. People interested in this scheme might be parents, youth workers, young leaders or teachers and the focus is on assisting with core tasks within a session.

Find out more and download the handbook.

2. Climbing Wall Instructor

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to supervise climbers on purpose-built artificial climbing walls and boulders. The scheme does not include the skills and techniques required to teach lead climbing.

Find out more and download the handbook.

3. Climbing Wall Instructor Abseil module

This qualification is an optional additional module for Climbing Wall Instructor, training and assessing candidates in the skills and techniques of supervising abseiling at climbing walls.

4. Climbing Wall Development Instructor

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to teach lead climbing skills on indoor or outdoor artificial climbing walls and structures with fixed protection. It builds on the skills acquired in either the Climbing Wall Instructor or Rock Climbing Instructor schemes, one of which candidates must hold to access this scheme.

Find out more and download the handbook

5. Rock Climbing Instructor

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to supervise climbers on single pitch crags and climbing walls. Common activities undertaken by a Rock Climbing Instrcutor will be roped climbing and bouldering. The scheme does not include the skills and techniques required to teach lead climbing.

Find out more and download handbook

6. Rock Climbing Development Instructor

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to develop rock climbers including teaching lead climbing skills on natural crags. It builds on the skills acquired in either the Rock Climbing Instructor which candidates must hold to access this scheme.

Find out more and download the handbook

7. Foundation Coach

This qualification is designed to enable coaches to be more effective in coaching the fundamental movement skills of climbing. Foundation Coaches will usually be concerned with the stimulating delivery of a single session to a group of individuals. They will often be assisting a Development Coach who will set the learning outcomes for the session, as part of a longer term progression, course, or scheme.

Find out more and download the coaching scheme handbook

WATCH: Foundation Coach: a Mountain Training qualification on BMC TV

8. Development Coach

This qualification supports the development of climbers over a series of sessions. Development Coaches will deliver 'Climber Centred Coaching’ . It is ideal for independent autonomous coaches who prepare for, and deliver, structured progression to climbers involved in regular participation, such as climbing clubs, schools and youth groups.
Often working with Foundation Coaches, a Development Coach will take a mentoring role, and lead in the review process to promote reflective coaching practice.

Find out more and download the coaching scheme handbook.

WATCH: Development Coach: a Mountain Training qualification on BMC TV

9. Lowland Leader Award

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to lead groups ps on day walks in lowland countryside and woodland in summer conditions. The majority of Britain and Ireland is made up of this type of terrain so you'll never be short of places to go walking.

Find out more and download the handbook

WATCH: Learn, Lead, Inspire - In the Hills on BMC TV

10. Hill and Moorland Leader Award

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to lead groups in non-mountainous terrain known as upland, moor, fell and down. The Peak District, Dartmoor and the Pentland Hills are typical areas where award holders lead groups.

Find out more and download the handbook

11. Camping Leader

The Camping Leader provides taining and assessment in supervising camping groups. The flexibility of the qualification makes it useful for holders of the Lowland Leader and Hill and Moorland Leader Awards.

Find out more and download the handbook

12. Mountain Leader

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to lead hill walking groups in summer conditions on routes not requiring the planned use of a rope. Established in 1964, this was the first scheme created.

Find out more and download the handbook

13. Winter Mountain Leader

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to lead walking groups in winter conditions in the mountains. The use of crampons and axes is covered in the scheme. It builds on the Mountain Leader award, which candidates must hold to access this scheme.

Find out more and download the handbook

14. International Mountain Leader

This international qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to lead parties in mountain areas, including snow covered Nordic type terrain of the “middle” mountains. Via ferratas, glaciers and terrain requiring alpine techniques are excluded from the scheme. It builds on the skills acquired in the ML award, which candidates must hold to access the IML scheme. To operate outside the UK, award holders must be a member of a professional association called BAIML. The International Mountain Leader is an extensively used professional award.

Find out more and download the handbook

15. Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required for instructing mountaineering, including all aspects of summer rock climbing, including the coaching of lead climbing, and scrambling. It builds on the skills acquired in the Montain Leader scheme, which candidates must hold to access this scheme. This qualification is used extensively by lots of mountain professionals.

Find out more and download the handbook

16. Winter Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor

This qualification trains and assesses candidates in the skills required for instruction of mountaineering, both summer and winter, including snow, ice and rock climbing. It builds on the skills acquired in both the Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor and Winter Mountain Leader schemes, both of which candidates must hold to access this scheme. This qualification is used extensively by lots of mountain professionals.

Find out more and download the handbook

There is another qualification, not administered by Mountain Training:

17. IFMGA Mountain Guide

This international award trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to guide climbing (including the coaching of lead climbing) skiing and mountaineering on rock, snow and ice, and in alpine terrain. Within the UK it is administered to the standards set by British Mountain Guides (BMG) and the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). The Guide’s carnet is an extensively used professional award.

Find out more on the BMG website

Professional Associations

There are four professional associations in the UK for holders of the awards listed above. They run continual professional development workshops for their members to keep up to date with current good practice, and their websites provide useful information outlining the type of work their members undertake.

Mountain Training Association
for trainee and qualified candidates across all schemes
Association of Mountaineering Instructors
for trainee and qualified Mountaineering and Climbing Instructors
British Association of International Mountain Leaders
for trainee and qualified International Mountain Leaders
British Mountain Guides
for holders of the IFMGA Guides carnet.

Their websites include lists of members holding qualifications, so are a good place to start if you're looking for an instructor.

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Anonymous User

14/03/2012

Very Interesting to hear about qualifications. I recently passed the Winter Moorland Leader Assessment in Dartmoor, to lead groups in Winter over Moorland, this qualification has been around well before the WGL. Why has it been surpressed by MLTE. This award should be promoted more.

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Anonymous User

16/03/2012

Totally Agree with the last remark regarding the Winter Moorland Leader Training Courses, this award would be ideal for those who do not want to become Winter Mountain Leaders, which invloves a great deal of cost , travel, expence and time. We have to remember that all of us who like the outdoors do not want to climb steep wintery mountains in the winter. We would rather walk in less steeper environments.

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Anonymous User

25/03/2012

Never knew about the Winter Moorland Leader Course, why has it not been promoted on a national basis. There is no environmental difference regarding moorland and hills throughout the UK. Can the BMC look into this and explain why ? This qualification would fill the gap between walking group leader and Winter Mountain Leader.

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Anonymous User

11/06/2012

Will the new Mountain Training Association be looking at promoting the Winter Moorland Leader UK wide. It should be offered to other parts of the UK. Kelly Davis.

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Andy Say

14/06/2012

HI. MLTE has always had positive links with the South West Mountain and Moorland Training Scheme. Far from trying to suppress that scheme we are actually supportive: they are one of the MLTE's approved providers of WGL training and assessment!
To clarify, the WGL is considered by the SWMMTS as being equivalent to their summer and winter moorland leader modules combined. If you have the WGL you effectively have been assessed to the same standards as the winter moorland leader element. The WGL is a 'year-round' award although, obviously, does not consider the skills etc needed to be leading others on ice and deep lying snow covered terrain. We recognise you can have a summer day in December; a hypothermia case was stretchered off Snowdon two weeks ago in June.

If WGL holders wanted to undertake the winter moorland leader element of the SWMMTS as cpd I understand there would be no problem with them entering the scheme at that level.
All the best,
Andy Say - MLTE

Like this comment (1)

Andrew Mcwilliams

03/08/2012

Hi i have a question about my qualification I hold an SPSA qualification and gained it about 8 years ago i was wondering if it is still current as i have been approached by an organisation to help them out on a local climbing wall
thanks for any advice

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Anonymous User

01/09/2012

Interesting to hear about Andy Says reply. But a few of us do feel that the Winter Moorland Leader should be promoted a lot more . The Winter Mountain Leader should only apply to Scotland due to their winter conditions in comparison to the rest of the UK. Only Scotland has severe winters. This does need a re-think, or younger individuals should be brought on board to the various MLTE boards and have more of in put , on revising qualifications. Paul Davies.

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Anonymous User

01/09/2012

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Jonathan Garside(author comment)

03/09/2012

There are good reasons for the Winter Mountain Leader being for the whole of the UK, namely that all of the UK's upland areas can experience severe winter conditions. Whilst this year's winter was mild, previous winters in N Wales have been very severe, for example. I was ski touring in the Carneddau in March 2011!

MTE's board members are available to see here, http://www.mountain-training.org/home-nations/england/about-mtengland/mte-board, providing you with the opportunity to contact the representative of most relevance to you. Both the training boards and BMC specialist committees do wish to ensure that walkers and climbers from as wide a range of backgrounds as possible are represented at their meetings. However, it can be hard to find people able to volunteer their time.

Mountain Training is conducting a review of the walking schemes at the moment, and you can submit your thoughts by following the links here, http://www.thebmc.co.uk/review-of-the-mountain-leader-and-walking-group-leader-awards?s=3

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Anonymous User

05/02/2013

I passed my Winter Mountain Leader in 2012. It was hard but worth it. It also cost me thousands of pounds in equipment and travelling to Scotland. If I only knew about the Winter moorland Leader I would have had a re-think. I have not used none of my winter mountian skills. A lot of the schools and colleges have made cut backs and cannot afford distance trips ,what they are going for are local areas involving Moorland areas. Will at any stage be a winter day added onto WGL or Summer ML , winter involves severe rain , not just snow.

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Anonymous User

06/02/2013

how long is the training and assessment for the Mountaineering Instructor Award - MIA and what level of environment does this cover? Do I need to have any other experience to do this?

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Anonymous User

06/02/2013

Mountain Training need to update their Summer ML and WGL. Why well because they seem to be seasoned qualifications. The BELA {Sports Leaders UK} does allow you to lead walks in winter at low level and so does the Winter Moorland Leader. It seems as though no one at Mountian Training want to commit or clearly clarify the situation. Other sporting bodies do not drag their feet when updating new course syllabus. When is the consultation to be released regarding updates of the WGL/Summer ML. Yours sincerely Arlene Dawes.

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Anonymous User

09/02/2013

09/02/13.
Reading the last email regarding the winter moorland leader course I am now interested in applying to go on the course. Delivering moorland low level walking skills in the winter are ideal for our students as they are on their D of E awards. Barry Gough {PE Teacher}

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Anonymous User

11/02/2013

I have worked in schools as a teacher part of my role was being involved in the Dof E awards. The Winter Moorland Leader would be ideal for our groups in winter conditions in Moorland areas. Great to see this course promoted a lot more on the Mountain Training website. Colin Jenkins

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Anonymous User

28/02/2013

Something needs to done to update the WGL and ML Summer Awards. Why not introduce a training day to bring groups out at low level ground in winter for example Staffs Moors, Cotswolds. I agree with some of the comments Mountain Training do not want to commit themselves or clearly clarify . Terry Barrat {Mobile and contact details are available on request}

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Anonymous User

10/10/2013

I agree with Mr Barratts comments , why cant a WGL and Summer ML walk groups out on flat land in Winter as long as your less than 2 - 300 metres from a telephone box and main road you are safe. A Winter Moorland Leader can do it in a far greater challenging environment such as Dartmoor. Will Mountain Leader Training ever address this issue or always put the matter to one side. Bruce Hodge

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Anonymous User

23/10/2013

yo yo yo its ella and elise, we co outdoor ed at college and we would like to know what Qualifications required do you need for rock climbing? :)

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Anonymous User

17/11/2013

Passed my Winter Mountain Leader in 2010, looking at it now did we have to study snow and ice that much at one point I was thinking will I really use all of this information. To be honest the qualification is more specific to Scotland weather conditions and the Scottish environment. Interested to read other emails about the Winter Moorland Leader that is more ideal for English day walks in winter in low moorland terrain.

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Jonathan Garside(author comment)

18/11/2013

Regarding recent comments about leading groups on moorland in the winter, it's maybe worth re-visiting MTE Exec Secretary Andy Say's post from June:

"To clarify, the WGL is considered by the South West Mountain and Moorland Training Scheme as being equivalent to their summer and winter moorland leader modules combined. If you have the WGL you effectively have been assessed to the same standards as the winter moorland leader element. The WGL is a 'year-round' award although, obviously, does not consider the skills needed to be leading others on ice and deep lying snow covered terrain. "

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Anonymous User

30/12/2013

Surprised to read emails about the Winter Moorland Leader courses. Never knew it existed, I and other teachers are now looking at applying on going on the course as our students have to do Outdoor education from September to April and sometimes it is snowing, may be not that much, but with the correct training and award such as the Winter moorland Leader we can take them out when there is a light depth of snow and there is communication within a few hundred metres on low hill and flat ground. Karl Stanley {lecturer}

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Anonymous User

04/01/2014

Sports leader UK {BEL award} and the Winter Moorland Leader allow you to bring out groups with light snow on the ground as the WGL and ML is of a higher award why is it not in the course syllabus. Is it worth going for Mountain Training awards if they have such strict guidelines. Claire Daley lecturer in Outdoor Ed.

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Anonymous User

27/06/2014

Hi all Completed my winter moorland leader this year, what an experience and really enjoyed it . Definitely an alternative to the Winter Mountain Leader. I can now bring groups out in Winter on low level moorland.

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Anonymous User

04/12/2015

Hi

What qualification is appropriate to take groups on coastal paths?

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Jonathan Garside(author comment)

04/12/2015

For leading groups on coastal paths, the Lowland Leader Award is the most accessible in terms of length of training and assessment courses.
As noted elsewhere on our site, there is of course no requirement to have any qualification to lead groups, as competency can be demonstrated in a number of ways.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/qualifications-explained

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Anonymous User

04/01/2016

Hi
What qualification do I need to be able to deliver the Climbing Wall Award? Is there a course so I can train and assess the Climbing Wall Award?

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cairo hazell

21/08/2017

This comment is awaiting moderation, it will be reviewed

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Anonymous User

04/02/2019

I have absolutely no interest in leading and/or instruction are there any recognised courses that define a climber/mountaineer's capacity to operate effectively at given levels of difficulty.

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Anonymous User

20/05/2020

Hi I got my SPA back in 2005 I assume this is no longer current am I able to transfer my qualification to the new scheme or will I have to undertake a new assessment ?
Many thanks

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