Magical makeovers coming to BMC crags

Posted by Peter Burnside on 01/04/2018

With the explosion in participation of climbing and the upcoming Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, the BMC has announced a plan to make its crags more accessible to all. These improvements will be rolled out over the coming year, and will be designed to make the experience of outdoor crags feel more like you’re climbing indoors. Read on for a rundown of these changes.

Harrison’s Rocks

Striking sandstone features in a beautiful woodland setting – Harrison’s has always been a popular venue for climbers. But the tricky nature of setting up top ropes has often held a number of people back from climbing here. To make this venue more accessible to all, the BMC has decided to install a number of autobelays on the Isolated Buttress. The routes to receive autobelays is still being decided, but those put forward so far include Birchden Wall, Wailing Wall, North-West Corner and Edwards’s Effort, amongst others.

If you have a route you’d like to see an autobelay installed on, please email: winfreestuff@thebmc.co.uk with your suggestion.

Craig y Longridge

This legendary Lancashire bouldering crag is the perfect training venue for locals, as the quarried gritstone is long, low, and overhanging for the most part, just like indoor training boards. To make it even more suitable, the BMC will install rubber crumb matting all along the base of the crag. Now your matts, shoes and gear will stay dry and clean in conditions when the turf would have often been boggy, and you can enjoy your Aeropress almond milk latte without getting your bum wet.

Horseshoe Quarry

After the recent rebolting campaign, it has come to the BMC’s attention that Horseshoe Quarry is still not accessible enough for families and children. In an effort to encourage kids at crags, part of this once peaceful venue will be sectioned off for the development of the BMC’s first outdoor Clip&Climb venue. Please be aware, half of the car park spaces will also be allocated for families after this upgrade has been completed.

WATCH: How to use Horseshoe Quarry on BMC TV

Wilton 1 Quarry

The largest of the Wilton Quarries will become even larger! With arguably the finest climbing in Lancashire, the BMC wanted to see what it could do to make Wilton even better. A lot of ideas were put to the table, but winning plan is to create taller walls for climbing on. To do this, work will be undertaken to excavate the rock walls that are hidden underneath the ground – this will likely be a huge task. The Quarry will unfortunately be off limits for climbing until the work has been completed.

Crookrise

The BMC’s newest acquisition, Crookrise is a gritstone gem with exceptional climbing in a stunning landscape. It’s been described as a climber’s playground before, and to make visits even more enjoyable the BMC has decided to increase the number of activities available here by installing a zipwire for children, families and everyone to have fun with.

Craig Bwlch y Moch – Tremadog

Steeped with climbing history and known for some of the best Trad climbing in Wales, initially the BMC was reluctant to change anything at this exquisite and often punishing crag. But a new partnership with a well-known climbing hold company has helped birth a plan to make a number of climbs here more accessible. Keep your eyes peeled for more details once the partnership has been confirmed.


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