In an exciting new initiative this year the BMC International Sea Cliff Climbing Meet was held in West Cornwall for the first time. The Meet took place 9th to 16th May 2010 and was based at the Count House, a 200 year old Climbers' Club Hut perched above Bosigran.
The event was a great success with 65 climbers in attendance from 21 different countries. Twenty eight of these climbers were our international guests for the week and had never climbed in Cornwall before (some had never even climbed trad!). They were teamed up with UK hosts who showed them some of the finest traditional climbing in the UK.
The 28 strong team of international guests had an almost insatiable appetite for routes. Pretty much every route they were pointed at was dispatched with style and skill. Many classics were ticked, new lines were sent and all grades were climbed from Diff to E8.
The event was an excellent introduction for some of the international guests who had never climbed trad routes before. Day one saw these guests tentatively clipping their first pieces of leader placed protection. By the end of the week they were leading HVS’s, E1’s and E2’s.
The week flew by in a haze of routes with many smiling faces at the end of each day. Friendships were made and nothing was broken. As one of the UK hosts commented “this event has shook up the Cornish climbing scene in a great way, it has been truly inspirational.”
The BMC would like to thank all the UK Hosts and The Climbers’ Club. A big thank you also goes to Iain & Amanda Peters and their team; Bob, Pash, Daisy and Anna, who all did a sterling job feeding 65 plus hungry climbers every day.
Read on for the facts....
New Routes - route names will be updated over the coming weeks
- Chopper (VS) Predannack Head, Lizard. Adam Thomas & Ekaterina (Kyrgyzstan).
- What kind of voodoo do you do? (E5, 6a) Gurnard’s Head. Max Bonniot (France) & Dave Pickford.
- From Slovenia with Love (E6, 6b) Carn Vellan. Luka Krajnc (Slovenia) & Andi Turner.
- Czech Mate (E6, 6b) Freedom Zawn. Jiri Sefl (Czech Republic) & Pat Littlejohn.
- Helluva Roof (E7, 7a) Hella Point. Madaleine Sorkin (USA) & Pat Littlejohn.
- Hellmet (HVS, 5a) Hella Point. Frank Cannings and Dave Hillebrandt
- North Sea Oil (VS, 4c) Hella Point. Stefan Lindblom (Sweden) & Frank Cannings.
- Penguins in Bondage (HVS, 5a) Hella Point. Stefan Lindblom (Sweden) & Frank Cannings.
- Un bon rute français (E3, 5c) Freedom Zawn. Max Bonniot (France) & Mark Richardson.
- Unnamed (Diff) Predannack Head, Lizard. Dave Hillebrandt & Vladimir Komissarov (Kyrghyztan).
- Unnamed (E1, 5a) Diamond Wall, Lizard. Pat Littlejohn & Dave Hope (UK).
- Over 10 new routes were done, see above.
- Morgawr (E6, 6c) Pat Littlejohn’s tough test piece from 1996 saw it’s second ascent by Czech Republic climber Jiri Sefl. He stormed through the crux unable to place much gear due to being pumped!
- The Absolution (E6, 6C) another bold Littlejohn route had it’s third ascent by Jiri Sefl. Just shy of the on sight Jiri fell off on the top crux, then climbed the route free.
- 29 Palms (E8, 6c) Andy Long’s masterpiece had a second ascent from top Japanese climber Toru Nakajima placing no protection in the peg holes. Toru also onsighted Tears of a Clown (E7, 6b) and soloed both Storms over Africa (E6, 6a) and Hell Hath No Fear (E7,6b) after trying both routes once on top rope.
- Many tough test pieces saw multiple onsights: Carmen (E6, 6b), Footless Madness (E6, 6b), Black Magic (E5, 6a), Darkinbad (E5, 6b), Liberator (E5, 6a), The West Face (E5, 6b), Demolition (E6 6a), Samson (E5, 6b), Baptisim of Fire (E6, 6b), Pinch the Egyptian (E6, 6c), Dog Town (E5, 6b) and Let The River Live (E6, 6b).
- Matteo Della Bordella from Italy made casual onsights of Wild at Heart (E6, 6b), Evil Eye (E5, 6b), Fun Curve Factory (E5, 6a) and The Lost Arrow (E5, 6b). Matteo narrowly missed the flash of Bridge of Sies (E7, 6b).
Many classic routes had multiple onsights
Alison Rib (D)
Astral Stroll (E1)
Rock Dancer (E1)
Porthgwarra Chimney (S)
Corner Climb (V Diff)
Demo Route (HS)
Sensible Shoes (VS)
Desolation Row (E2)
Right Angle (HS)
Crack in the Sky (E1)
Black Slab (V Diff)
Suicide Wall (E1)
Sea Fury (HVS)
Little Brown Jug (VS)
Big Top (V Diff)
Peel Crack (V Diff)
Glass Arete (E3)
The Dream (E3)
Stone Boom (E2)
Sunny Corner Lane (E3)
Black Sapper (E4)
New Editions (E4)
Bosigran, Great Zawn, Pordenack Point, Carn Barra, Kenidjack, Chair Ladder, Sennen, Gurnard’s Head, Carn Vellan, Hella Point, Cribba Head, Freedom Zawn, Carn Gloose, Porthguarnon, Robins Rocks, Pentire, Carn Boel, St Loy, Longships Wall and the Lizard.
Belgium, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, France, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Serbia, Slovak, Slovenia, South Africa, Sweden, UK, USA.
Guest & host comments
Here's what some of our international guests and UK hosts had to say about the event:
"Had a great time. Well organised event. Thoroughly enjoyed myself. Will be back soon to Cornwall" Harald Swen, Netherlands.
"I've been very happy to spend one week climbing in the Cornwall. Indeed the organisation was definitely perfect" Max Bonniot, France.
"There are things money can't buy, and I've got a lot of them at the BMC Meet: a permanent happy smile on my face, great climbs with wonderful companions and new friends" Laurentiu Anghel, Romania.
"Thank you very much. Sea cliff meet was wonderful experience to me" Toru Nakajima, Japan.
"Perfect!" Jirir Sefl, Czech Republic.
"Excellent organisation and nice idea, great opportunity for many climbers coming from everywhere to get in touch with British climbing and see Cornwall" Matteo Della Bordella, Italy.
"Great meet in a superb landscape with excellent hosts and routes" Luis Silva, Portugal.
"Climbing in England is great. Climbers in England are very friendly" Jan Sofranko, Slovakia.
"I really can't think of any way I would want to change it" Pete Saunders, UK.
"A fantastic week, a pleasure to be involved with" Craig Harwood, UK.