Better Bolts Campaign round-up

Posted by Daniel Middleton on 25/06/2014
Bolting at Upper Pen Trwyn

Back in 2007, many British sport climbing venues were suffering from a plague of old, decaying fixed equipment. In response, the BMC decided to assist volunteers and bolt funds, by providing both training and supplies of high quality bolts and lower off's. Read on to discover more.

Over a six year period, thousands of bolts have been donated, backed up with bolting workshops for groups of volunteers. The result has been a dramatic improvement in the quality of bolts at many classic (and some not so classic) venues.

Much work still needs to be done, so if you can make a donation or are willing to get involved in rebolting work, click on the links provided to connect with the bolt funds in your area.

Summary of donations

Broken down by area, and by the groups recieving them, here is a list of crags which bolts and/or lower off's have been donated for:

N.Wales

NWBF www.northwaleslimestone.com/bolt-fund.php

Llanberis Slate: various sectors including Vivian, Twll Mawr, Bus Stop, Looning the Tube.

Coastal Limestone: Great Orme inc. Upper and Lower Pen Trwyn, Little Orme inc. The Diamond. Penmaenbach Quarry, Llandulas.

Fedw Fawr (Anglesey).

Llanymynech.

Yorkshire

YBF www.theleedswall.co.uk/cms/index.php/new-routes/bolt-fund

Giggleswick South, Malham Cove, Trollers Gill, Gordale Scar, Trow Gill, Kilnsey Crag, Foredale Quarry, Robin Proctors Scar, Low & High Stoney Bank.

Lakes

Cumbria Bolt Fund www.cumbriaboltfund.co.uk

Hodge Close Quarry, Cathedral Quarry, Chapel Head, Scout Scar, Humphrey Head, St. Bees

S.Wales

SWBF www.southwalesboltfund.co.uk

 The Gap, Witches Point, Lantrisant Quarry, Lanbradach Upper Tier, Taffs Well East, Cwmaman, Rams Tor, Glynfach, Castle Alun, Oxwich South Quarry, Glais Quarry, Crosskeys Quarry.

South West

Dorset Bolt Fund www.dorset-climbing.com/dorset_bolt_fund

Blackers Hole Quarry, the Promenade,  Battleship Edge & Block, Blacknor Far South, The Cuttings.

Climb Bristol www.climbbristol.com

Avon Gorge.

Devon and Avon

Torbryan Quarry, Ansteys’s Cove, Brean Down.

Peak District

Peak Bolt Fund www.thepeakboltfund.blogspot.co.uk

Raven Tor, the Cornice, Chee Dale, the Cornice (WCJ), the Nook and Rubicon.

Gary Gibson www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Smalldale, Blackdale Halt, Harpur Hill, Masson Lees. Cawdor Quarry.

North West

Cheshire www.cheshireclimbing.wikifoundry.com/page/Frogsmouth+Quarry

Frogsmouth quarry.

All BMC bolt donations were checked and approved by the relevant Area Meetings, under the strict provision that they were only to be used to replace existing bolts on sport climbs, on a like for like basis. BMC supplied bolts have NOT been used for retro-bolting traditional routes, or to provide bolt lower off's at traditional crags.



« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 1318 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Fixed Gear Guidance on North West Crags and Quarries
0
Fixed Gear Guidance on North West Crags and Quarries

Following a consultative process including discussion at Area Meetings, the BMC North West Area has agreed guidance reflecting the climbing ethics and views of the North West on the use of fixed gear.
Read more »

Be safer sport climbing
1
Be safer sport climbing

Sport climbing is often assumed to be safer than traditional climbing, but it's by no means risk free. Competent indoor climbers will need to learn some additional skills if they are to safely enjoy the challenge of this new environment.
Read more »

Fixed Gear on North Wales Rock Climbs: General Advice and Guidance
1
Fixed Gear on North Wales Rock Climbs: General Advice and Guidance

Following discussions at Area Meetings in 2021, guidelines on placing or replacing fixed gear on rock climbs in North Wales were published and agreed at the July 2021 BMC Cymru North Wales Area Meeting.
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

RELATED ARTICLES

Fixed Gear Guidance on North West Crags and Quarries
0

Following a consultative process including discussion at Area Meetings, the BMC North West Area has agreed guidance reflecting the climbing ethics and views of the North West on the use of fixed gear.
Read more »

Be safer sport climbing
1

Sport climbing is often assumed to be safer than traditional climbing, but it's by no means risk free. Competent indoor climbers will need to learn some additional skills if they are to safely enjoy the challenge of this new environment.
Read more »

Fixed Gear on North Wales Rock Climbs: General Advice and Guidance
1

Following discussions at Area Meetings in 2021, guidelines on placing or replacing fixed gear on rock climbs in North Wales were published and agreed at the July 2021 BMC Cymru North Wales Area Meeting.
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »