Avoiding wear on bolted lower-offs

Posted by Daniel Middleton on 01/03/2014
Save wear and top rope using your own gear
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It takes time and money to install bolted lower off's at the top of sport climbs. Modern equipment can last for decades - unless it becomes worn out by repeated use. Help keep lower off's in good condition by adopting good practice when using them.

Wherever possible we should avoid wear on the bolts themselves, because once worn out, they have to be removed, and replaced. This can be difficult, if not impossible, and is expensive.

Twin bolt belays

Many lower off's are simple and contain just a pair of glue in bolts or hangers with rings. Repeated top roping and lowering can wear out bolts extremely rapidly. Use your own quickdraws and karabiners, then strip your gear and lower off through the bolts to finish. This will dramatically extend the lifetime of the in situ gear.

Rings and Maillons

At some popular crags, lower off bolts have been fitted with rings and maillons to save wear on the bolts themselves. Because the rings are free to turn, wear is greatly reduced, which means they should last for a long, long time. In addition, any twisting effect on the bolt eye is greatly reduced. Make sure you use any rings properly.
 

Help safeguard climbing for now and the future, and climb sustainably. Don't trash perfectly good bolts by direct top roping.

 



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Anonymous User
18/03/2014
Hi,
The slate lower off set up is so much better than the other one photographed; it is at a diagonal, and the lower bolt turned to allow through bolt eye pull through of ropes if required without excessive friction and twisting of the ropes. To equalise, this set up for a top rope, one short and one long quickdraw would be fine. However, some of the dust from the drilling could be kept for 'dusting' the glue to get it camouflaged a bit more. Mind you bolts don't really sink into the background do they.
Anonymous User
25/03/2014
Even better, rap off, saving the bolts any rope running through.

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