What's been getting done on and off the ground: Autumn 2016

Posted by Sarah Stirling on 28/09/2016
Julian Lines at Gogarth. Photo: Gilly McArthur

From the inaugral Women's Trad Fest to Julian Lines taking advantage of the full moon spring tides to DWS E7 at Gogarth; from the Wideboyz smashing the Staffordshire Nose Challenge to Joe Heeley's new E9 at Dovedale, it seems like a lot has been done recently, so here's a quick round up in social media posts from the climbers' own minds and fingers.

First ever Women's Trad Festival a huge success.

12-14 August

Organiser Ellie Fuller commented: 

"Over 65 people came! We were oversubscribed and sadly had to say 'no' to a lot of people, so it seems that there was a real need for something that facilitates women to get out trad climbing in this way. For many of them it was their first time climbing outdoors. At least 20 people did their first trad leads, and we’ve had loads of good feedback. The experienced leaders all said that they really enjoyed it too, so it seems that this style of peer-to-peer learning works and everyone felt they benefited."

The event, which was held in the Peak District, looks set to be bigger and better next year so watch this space.

Wideboyz smash Staffordshire Nose challenge.

16 August

Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall broke the record for the challenge by two hours 15 minutes. Also known as the Brown-Whillans Day Out, it involves climbing all the Joe Brown and Don Whillans routes at The Roaches, Hen Cloud and Ramshaw. They climbed all 31 routes in two hours 44 minutes, beating Pete Bridgwood and Andi Turner's record, set in 2014. 

Tom Randall commented:

"Last month's worth of enduro prep work was all worth it last night. My running up and down Stanage Edge and Pete's Squamish shenanigans gave us an edge that I don't think either of us were that sure would be good on the day. We were absolutely toasted! Felt like running a marathon in painful shoes and too many clothes." 

Eve Lancashire headpoints Rare Lichen at Cloggy, joining an elite club of British women who have climbed E9.

2 September

Eve commented:

"For me the crux was getting the size 0/1 RP in the slot before moving around the arete, as I lost my focus and my brain wandered and I started thinking about regretting not saying something to someone earlier. As I reached the skyhook jug, this was by far the worst I had climbed the bottom section: sketchy. Apart from the rest at the top break, it's relatively sustained. Placing the wires is definitely the crux!

"Before I was an onsight trad climber. I love the adventure of going up the unknown and the fight to stay on in desperation to get the route onsight, and the things that come into your head to get you to stay on and push on and not be pathetic and fall when you still have beans in the can. 

"I feel like I'm on the headpoint hype so would like to juggle onsighting and headpointing for a bit maybe. I like the harder moves and the lightweight rack! But also mega keen for double racks of cams and going up the steep stuff at Gogarth South! So much fun!"

On the August bank holiday weekend the ever-successful DWS comp took place at the Quay in Exeter.

27-30 August

Emma Twyford, who came second Open female, commented:

"The problems set by the A-team were ace with many crowd-pleasing moves and some spectacular splash downs involving full commitment face plants from finishing moves.

"The juniors seem to have got incredibly strong and the difficulty in all categories increased from last year. Both Emily Phillips (Junior girls) and Matt varela Christie (Open men) retained their titles in the speed finals with Sammy Oakes winning the junior boys!

"I felt like I climbed well in semi-finals topping all the routes but I'd been fighting flu and my fear of water all weekend. In the speed finals I was not fast enough but the title went to a worthy winner with Rhoslyn Frugtinet climbing fast and strong all weekend."

Teens rampage through North Wales trad on BMC Youth Meet.

9-11 September

​James McHaffie commented:

"15 youths from 11-17 years of age were teamed up with experienced volunteers and climbed lots of classic trad climbs over the weekend such as Flying Buttress, Noahs Warning, Cemeteray Gates, Diagonal, SuperDirect, Phantom Rib, Hangover and King Bee Crack. Ben Bransby gave a talk on world climbing on the Saturday night and Dinorwic Lodge supplied excellent food. Big shout out to the volunteers for giving their time and the CC for allowing use of the Ynys Ettws Climber Club hut and supplying free Cloggy guidebooks for the youth delegates."

Shauna Coxsey hands over fat cheques from Climbers Against Cancer in Paris.

17 September

Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn make the third ascent of the House-Anderson route on Mount Alberta.

17 September

READ: The full BMC interview

Julian Lines takes advantage of full moon spring tides to DWS E7 at Gogarth.

18 September

There are particularly high tides around the time of a full moon, known as spring tides because they are full and bouncy. Julian Lines took advantage of these to make what we think is the first DWS ascent of the E7 Demons of Bosch on Gogarth's North Stack Wall. 

Meanwhile young gun Joe Heeley put up a new E9, Eyes Wide Shut, on The Watchtower in sleepy Dovedale.

18 September

Charlie Woodburn makes third ascent of Talbot Horizon (E9).

20 September

The FRCC guidebook describes this Dave Birkett route as: "Unequivocally the most serious route in the Lakes – dynamic climbing above woeful protection. Life insurance won't help you a jot if you fail."

Caff on track to tick off Extreme Rock.

What's dark horse Caff been up to? Not much. Only "done nine more extreme rock ticks in the last month so on for near completion next year".

Don't miss the Women's Climbing Symposium on 8 October!

www.womensclimbingsymposium.com


As the climbing walls, crags and mountains start to open, we wanted to say thanks to every BMC member who supported us through the Coronavirus crisis.

From weekly Facebook Lives and GB Climbing home training videos, to our access team working to re-open the crags and fight for your mountain access, we couldn’t have made it without you.

If you liked what we did, then tell your friends about us: www.thebmc.co.uk/join


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