The low-lying coastal cliffs of Tremadog are a firm favourite amongst climbers for their weather-dodging location and technically demanding routes, and Craig Bwlch y Moch is the showpiece crag of the edge.

Bwlch y Moch is stacked with historical classics from all the main players, but thanks to a change in fashions and climate it was in real danger of getting overrun by a tide of aggressive vegetation. Enter the BMC supported North Wales Climbing Action Group (NWCAG) to save the day.

Q. What’s been happening?
A. Craig Bwlch y Moch is owned by the BMC and it seemed time for some direct action to unearth the lost classics and make a number of other routes more accessible. Under the direction of Mike Raine, the North Wales Climbing Action Group (NWCAG) has held three cleaning days since November, during which the number of clean routes has rocketed skywards. A new ladder has also been installed in Belshazzar Gully to replace the previous decrepit relic.

Q. Felling trees and clearing vegetation – isn’t that environmental damage?
A. Not at all. The crag shares many common features with a nearby Nature Reserve and Site of Special Scientific Interest and contains valuable vegetation including oak or ash woodland, with hazel, rowan, holly and hawthorn scrub, and diverse cliff-face plant communities. As a result the local conservation body, the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW), were consulted and on hand to guide the effort. Dr Barbara Jones of the CCW said:

“Removing encroaching ivy was important to open up the climbs, but equally important was the management of the woodland itself. Management such as improving access and descent paths will prevent damage to the vegetation and soils and retention of dead wood is important for insects, birds, lichens and fungi. This project is a good example of where sensitive management can work to benefit conservation, wildlife and recreation, often seen as competing demands, even at a heavily used site such as Tremadog.”

Q. What about the climbing?
A. The group undertook a huge effort over the winter months, and the following routes are now in a more climbable condition:

The Neb, Neb Direct, Anagram, Final Exam, Grotto, Grotto Direct, Tremudrock Finish, The Mongoose, Emily Street, Brothers Direct, Smarter than the Average Bear, Kestrel Cracks, Slipshod, Borneo, Mr. Ranger, Clapton’s Crack, Approach, Knell for a Jackdaw, Atomic Finger Flake, Heartbreak Hotel start to Rienetta, Marathon Man, Void, Starship Trooper, Burlesque, High Kicks, Geronimo, Rio, Mr. Ranger, Salamanda, Hedera, Oakover, Bloodsucker, Heartline, Axeover (Axeminster alternative start direct to finish right of Oakover tree), Axeminster, Fohn and Chinook.

So, next time you’re down there, why not have a pop at something on this list? A bit of traffic will ensure they remain climbable for the foreseeable future.

Q. How overgrown were the routes?
A. Very! Take a look at the two photos below - which route would you rather climb? On the left is slipshod in its original state, and on the right, the new improved version.

Q. Top job. Who do I thank?
A. Thanks go out to all of NWCAG, Plas y Brenin for supporting the work, CCW for the descent ladder and finally to that man Eric Jones of Eric’s Cafe fame for keeping the volunteers fuelled with free food and drink.

« Back