At much the same time that Robert Jasper and friends were climbing their long, hard new routes in the Naeroydalen region of South West Norway, Bjorn-Eivind Aartun was creating two, big new ice lines in the Kjerag massif, adhering strictly to local ethics and climbing without bolts.
On the 12th February, Aartun and Stein Ivar Gravdahl climbed the huge Strandhogg (800m: WI 6+, M5+ and A0). Two days later, with Annelin Hendriksen, Aartun added Pin-up (600m: WI 6).
Kjerag lies above the Lysefjorden, not far east of Stavanger on Norway’s south west coast. It is arguably the premier big wall in the country but is probably more famous as a BASE jump site, attracting enthusiasts from around the World. There is a distinct British presence in the list of established rock routes, with new lines or all free ascents by the likes of Cave, Houlding, Littlejohn and Renshaw. However, when in condition, the ice climbing at Kjerag is spectacular and absolutely world class.
Logistics are unusual, as the wall rises straight from the fjord: the two Norwegians had to bring their own outboard engine to mount on a dingy, kindly leant to them by BASE jumpers. A 30-minute voyage in the dark would get them to the bottom of the wall.
The first two ice routes in the massif were not completed until 2006, and one of these, Svigermors Droem (600m: WI 6), was rated ‘number one’ on his 'World's Top 100 Ice Climbs' by second ascensionist and well-known Canadian, Guy Lacelle. Lines are sustained, from 600-800m high, and are not generally frozen waterfalls. Instead, the ice is pasted in granite diedres and onto blank walls: it weaves through overhangs and forms wonderful lines with highly interesting climbing.
On the 11th February, Aatun and Gravdahl made an inspection of the lower section of what would become Strandhogg. This was the most coveted line at Kjerag, ascending the front wall immediately below the BASE jump launch site. They climbed up the initial mixed section to the start of the main ice sheet, assessed it was steep, thin, but seemingly possible, then rappelled to the ground, leaving no fixed ropes. Next day they reached the ice by 9.30am and were on top at 9.15pm - stoked and happy. At one point on the route Aartun was forced to make a small pendulum (A0) to reach a hanging dagger.
The climbers took no bolt kit and were prepared to back down if the route was above their standard. It turned out to be psychologically right at their limit. Aartun believes that it would have been a tragedy to bolt it: if there is no protection, one has to wait until it gets into shape, simply admiring the beauty of a line that is currently unobtainable.
Pin-up, climbed two days later, was the last, remaining, major line in the hanging valley left of the main massif, and finishes up the last two pitches of Svigermors Droem. These ascents by Aartun follow a very productive season in Patagonia, where he climbed a number of fine routes, including the first ascent of Hvit Linje (600m: WI 6), follows pencil-thin ice smears up to and then over the large serac below the ramp of the Whillans Route on the East Face of Aguja Poincenot.
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