BMC Masterclass instructor Naomi Buys has kicked off her trad season in fine style with quick ascents of three E7s. One of the routes was also her first-ever new route.
Naomi’s week started off with Gathering Sun (E7 6c), a 16m direct line with a notorious reachy finale at Nescliffe. After top roping the route two weeks previously, Naomi tied on for the lead and head pointed it second go.
Round two: Hawcliffe and the esoteric classic Birdsong (E7 6c) was next on the list. After her first top-rope session, Naomi said that she “was sent away with her tail between her legs”. Fast-forward 40 hours and she found herself tying on for the lead. The first attempt saw her falling at the crux. After a breather she sent the route second go.
The third E7 to tumble was Naomi’s first new route and she called it Overlooked (E7 6b). Located at a small quarry in Pendle called Newchurch, Jordan, her husband, spied the wall a month earlier. Their cleaning efforts revealed a gem of a bijou over-hanging wall. Naomi said “it was like leading a very steep and pumpy F7c, except I wouldn’t have wanted to fall off it”.
Read Naomi’s full account of her fabulous week.
Want to climb like Naomi? Join her for a BMC Climbing Movement Masterclass
Naomi will cover climbing movement skills: footwork precision, economy of movement and the utilisation of existing strengths. The classes are for those who climb in the grade range of French 5 to 6b+. There will be a maximum of six climbers per two hour class. The minimum age of Masterclass attendees is 16 years old.
Plymouth Saturday 10 May High Sports
Bristol Monday 12 May The Climbing Academy (bouldering wall)
Queensferry Friday 16 May The Boardroom
All bookings are through the BMC. Cost: £26 per class per person for BMC members and £34 per person per class for non members. Wall entry is included in the cost and you can stay on and climb at the wall after the class at no extra cost.
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