On the 25th June, filmed by Télévision Suisse Romande, 86-year-old Marcel Remy led through on La Normale, the 16-pitch Original or Y Route on the North West Face of the Grand Miroir d'Argentine (2,325m), Swiss Vaudoises.

Father of famous Swiss climbing brothers Claude and Yves Remy, 'Mad Dad, as he is affectionately becoming known, last year climbed a single-pitch 6a at Kalymnos on-sight and after a number of attempts managed to redpoint a 6b.

However, in 2009 he had to undergo surgery for carpal tunnel syndrome in both hands, and also had a problem with one of his feet, all of which kept him out of any activity for four months.

His comeback was remarkable, though one month after resuming activity he was still rather disappointed with himself for taking three hours to complete the difficult Via Ferrata on the Rocher de Naye, when last year it had taken only one hour.

Remy is familiar with the Miroir. His sons have put up many new routes on this famous 450/500m-high limestone slab, and when 80 he led every pitch of La Normale (15 pitches: 5a+ with two points of aid), Direct (15 pitches: 5a) and Remix (13 pitches: 5c+). This June, after the steep one-hour approach from the car, he chose to lead through on the Normale, making sure he avoided the hard pitches. Even so, it is sometimes necessary to climb 10-15m above the in-situ protection.

Born in February 1923, Marcel Remy was brought up on a farm in an isolated valley of the Vaudoises Alps. As a child, going to school was not often an option: he was required to help out with the farm on a daily basis. He got into alpinism early, and his passion for the heights has never left him, despite an avalanche destroying the family home and killing his mother and sister.

He was responsible for introducing his two sons to the mountains at an early age and has climbed with them ever since. Two artificial hips at the age of 75 has neither stopped him skiing nor practicing other sports that some might consider 'mad' for a person his age - like skate-boarding.

Watch the Swiss TV film - Discover the Grand Miroir d'Argentine with the Remy family

 

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