Craig Bwlch y Moch

Snowdonia

A dolerite crag with quite a lot of history. Owned and managed by the BMC, the crag contains some of the very best outcrop climbing anywhere, mainly multi pitch and all grades from V.Diff to E7. The name in Welsh means 'The Crag of the Pass of the Pigs'

 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: International CRoW Land: No
Ownership: BMC Owned No. of Routes: 191
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1951
Grid Reference: SH577406

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

Owls are nesting in the tree part way up the route Axeover and (end of April) are incubating at least two young chicks -this is a histortical nest site but it's advised to avoid all the routes on this slab until the birds have fledged (end of May).

Ravens are also nesting on Neb buttress, please avoid routes on the Neb buttress, until the birds have fledged (End of May). 

2022 - Parking up date- Hadfer Glaping Site are now open to climbers from 8am untill 8pm. You will need to pay via the "Just Park App". If you have a epic and are late down please email the Hadfer Campsite owner to explain. 

 

Restrictions apply from 1 April - 31 May.

Reason: Nesting Birds

2021 - Tawny Owls are nesting in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab unti the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Parking and Approach

2022 Parking Update, Hadfer Glamping Site are now open for parking from 8am untill 8 pm every day. Please pay via the JUST PARK APP. 

 

If you are climbing longer than these hours please park consideratly in laybys, either about a kilometre towards Tremadog village or about half a kilometer to the east towards Prenteg and walking in. 

 

CRoW Information

Will be dedicated as open access under CROW by the BMC.

Group Advice

Suitable - but can be very busy, especially at weekends, and a lack of low grade single pitch routes can make it difficult for novice groups.

Area information

A wide range of cliffs - mainly traditional and multi pitch inc. the popular Llanberis Pass, Idwal Slabs, Clogwyn du'r Arddu and Cwm Silyn cliffs, but also outlying outcrops such as Carreg Alltrem. Many crags are on CROW access land - but not all especially some of the outcrops which lie on private enclosed land. Most of central Snowdonia is both designated an SSSI and also is an European Special Area of Conservation on account of the upland habitat and associated geology and plants found here.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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Anonymous User
16/07/2019
Its worth noting that there is a nest of honey bees at the end of the first picth of Hele Bebe. The bees are not agressive and a belay stancd can be found to the side of the tree out od their way. It might be worth any local bee keepers and also climbers investigating the feasibility of removing the nest.
Anonymous User
22/07/2020
21/07/2020 18.00
Path to bottom of Grim Wall Direct area has been changed to slightly higher elevation, due to severe erosion of previous section
26/04/2021
Please don't climb on the Oakover slab until the Tawny Owl has finished nesting in the old tree stump half way up the slab. It should be finished by the end of May 2021 because the chicks tend to leave the nest after five weeks. All routes pass too close to the stump and the abseil goes right past the stump too. The adult flew out of the stump on Axeover as we climbed past yesterday (25 April) so we walked off, rather than abseiling. It would be a real shame to scare away the parents and leave the two chicks to starve to death.