Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Owls are nesting in the tree part way up the route Axeover and (end of April) are incubating at least two young chicks -this is a histortical nest site but it's advised to avoid all the routes on this slab until the birds have fledged (end of May).
Ravens are also nesting on Neb buttress, please avoid routes on the Neb buttress, until the birds have fledged (End of May).
2022 - Parking up date- Hadfer Glaping Site are now open to climbers from 8am untill 8pm. You will need to pay via the "Just Park App". If you have a epic and are late down please email the Hadfer Campsite owner to explain.
Restrictions apply from
1 April
-
31 May.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2021 - Tawny Owls are nesting in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab unti the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Parking and Approach
2022 Parking Update, Hadfer Glamping Site are now open for parking from 8am untill 8 pm every day. Please pay via the JUST PARK APP.
If you are climbing longer than these hours please park consideratly in laybys, either about a kilometre towards Tremadog village or about half a kilometer to the east towards Prenteg and walking in.
Group Advice
Suitable - but can be very busy, especially at weekends, and a lack of low grade single pitch routes can make it difficult for novice groups.