Craig Dorys

The Lleyn

A fine adventurous sea cliff, with some epic and memorable routes. Home to War and Peace E6 6a the high traverse of the whole crag. Can be loose and scary!

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 43
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1967
Grid Reference: SH 29995 23442

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Restrictions apply from 1 February - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

Parking and Approach

Parking at Cilan Uchaf Farm for a small fee, please take cash!

Group Advice

Not suitable

Area information

Weather Information

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Elfyn Jones(staff comment)
Yes - sandstone. Very old and metamorphosed sandstone, part of the Ordovician Arenig Sandstone group, specifically the Cilan Formation of Harlech Grits.....