September 29th 2021 - BMC have had information that a number of the anchor bolts above the Main Wall are loose, in particular one of the bolts above Route 1. If in any doubt then ensure that you back up the anchors.
If the car park is closed, or busy, please use the main Mynydd Marian car park, some 5 mins walk away. Directions below. Do not park on the approach road.
The owners (Conwy Council) have in general no problems with climbers using this site, however developments to the west of the main cliff have involved gardening and rock removal on a site known to be important for a nationally rare butterfly, the Silver Studded Blue. Climbers are asked to minimise gardening and vegetation clearance at this location, which is an SSSI, and avoid damaging the grassland below the rock face. There have also been concerns that trees and other scrubby growth have been cut on the east side of the cliff. It is important that no tree or vegetation clearance takes place without prior approval from the site warden, contactable via the BMC.
The right hand side of the car park has been sold to a private owner, and climbers should not enter the fenced area or land belonging to the old Castle Inn. However the cliff face is still owned by the council and climbing is allowed.
Climbers need to be aware that the cliffs are very close to and overlook residential areas and any undue noise or unsociable activity will cause anatgonism and possible access issues. This is particularly true for larger and organsised groups - this is not a a school playground, so instructors and leaders, please manage your groups accordingly!
At busy times parking can be a problem and complaints have been recieved abourt climbers blocking the lane below the crag - consider going to other sites if this is the case. It's strongly recomended that groups in minbuses or larger vehicles do not park below the crag but instead use the Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve Car park - and approach the crag by a short 5min walk across the meadow above the crag. Map ref for car park SH893772.
Suitable for small groups only - all the routes are sports climbs, and top roping directly through the bolts is to be avoided to minimise wear on the bolts.
Instructors and group leaders need to be aware that the cliffs are close to and overlook residential areas and there have been concerns by residents about nosiy and unruly behaviour by climbers. Parking is also limted and there have been issues with minibuses impeding access on the approach lane.
It 's strongly advised that groups in minibuses park at the main Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve car park at SH 893772. This is located by following the lane beyond the crag, in an eastward direction, until the lane veers left (north) and after half a kilometer the car park is on the left. It is only a very short 5 mins walk across the meadow to the crag from here.