Chapel Head Scar

South Lakes Limestone

Sport climbing on limestone - its steep and fingery routes will test even the fittest.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Lake District Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Within National Park No. of Routes: 73
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1974
Grid Reference: SD443862

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction is signed and applies to the whole crag.

The birds are regularly monitored and the restriction lifted early if it's not needed. However, it is worth bearing in mind that this is a very reliable site for peregrines and it unusual that they don't nest. If the birds fledge early or the nest fails, any update will be posted on this page as soon as we know about it.

CRoW Information

The cliff and approach are not on Open Access land. However, a large part of the reserve (above the cliff) is, see map here;http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/enjoying/places/openaccess/default.aspx

Group Advice

Unsuitable.

Area information

With implimentation of the CRoW Act (2000), many Lakes fells and crags now have an Open Access designation. They also have many nationally important bird and plant species dependant on inaccessible crags/ledges and heather/mixed heath environments for survival. During the bird nesting period, a number of species can be vulnerable to disturbance. The Lake District restrictions are monitored, variable (VR) and reviewed in April/May. If the birds do not nest, restrictions are lifted early. Check the BMC and FRCC websites in early May for details. New restrictions will be notified on the websites and with on-site notices. To view the BMC's Lake District Green Climbing Guide click this link: www.thebmc.co.uk/lake-district-green-guide

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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4
1) Anonymous User
09/05/2017
Hi, is the peregrine ban currently in place this year? Thanks
18/05/2017
Is there an answer yet to the previous users question re the peregrine / nesting birds ban at this crag?
3) Rob Dyer (staff comment)
30/05/2017
Hi both, yes the restriction is indeed in place in 2017 - the birds are being monitored and are nesting on the crag. If the restriction had changed, RAD would be updated immediately.

Cheers,
Rob Dyer (BMC Access & Conservation Officer, England)
4) Anonymous User
21/06/2017
This comment is awaiting moderation, it will be reviewed