The impressive continuous band of white cliffs rising out of the sea on the west coast, has some of the best and more adventurous sports routes on Portland. With large sections of routes reaching 30m in length. Grades from 2c to 8a, with the majority in the mid 6's to low 7's.
A few Trad golden oldies routes take the chimneys and wide cracks.
Climbing Area:
South West & Southern
Rock Type:
Limestone
Importance:
Regional
CRoW Land:
No
Ownership:
Unknown
No. of Routes:
257
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
1970
Grid Reference:
SY678696
All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Parking and Approach
Wallsend North: park considerately at the end of Reap Lane in Southwell, by a modern housing estate. Take a footpath to the large fence around Southwell Business Park, turn right and follow this to the cliff top path. From here go left and the descent path begins 30m further on and leads gently down the grassy bank to the northern end of the crag. Once the path crosses a pinch point in the So Hardcore area, the grassy bank as been affected by landslips over last few years and is quite treacherous in places inclueding the last slope down to bounders (rope may be in place)
Wallsend South: park at the large Portland Bill car park (pay and display), and walk north for 400m across the grassy area towards the Coastguard lookout. Just before reaching the lookout, head down the grassy bank and scramble down and rightwards (looking out) on a steep and precarious path to the boulder beach/promontory between the Coastguard North and South. From here, walk north beneath Coastguard North for 150m to reach the southerly end of Wallsend South. This approach is cut off at high tide.
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