Wallsend Cove

Portland

With the largest cliffs on Portland, Wallsend Cove offers climbers steep, impressive lines with big atmosphere. Wallsend South is at sea level and offers the lonest routes (up to 30m), whilst Wallsend North is set back from the water's edge with routes up to 20m. A good spread of grades are catered for, but the real quality starts at 6b upwards.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 257
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1970
Grid Reference: SY678696

All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Empire State Arete to Beautiful South inclusive.

Parking and Approach

Wallsend North: park considerately at the end of Reap Lane in Southwell, by a modern housing estate. Take a footpath to the large fence around Southwell Business Park, turn right and follow this to the cliff top path. From here go left and the descent path begins 30m further on and leads gently down the grassy bank to the northern end of the crag.

Wallsend South: park at the large Portland Bill car park (pay and display), and walk north for 400m across the grassy area towards the Coastguard lookout. Just before reaching the lookout, head down the grassy bank and scramble down and rightwards (looking out) on a steep and precarious path to the boulder beach/promontory between the Coastguard North and South. From here, walk north beneath Coastguard North for 150m to reach the southerly end of Wallsend South. This approach is cut off at high tide.

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