Upper Pen Trwyn

The Ormes

User attention

Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holiday weekends and during the period July 15th to September 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisells Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions.

from 15/08/2019 to 08/09/2019

Includes all of the routes above the Marine Drive, including Mayfair Wall, The Cutaway, Gold Walls, Excursion, Pill box Wall, Yellow and Black Walls, etc.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Local Authority No. of Routes: 171
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1972
Grid Reference: SH780838

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

 

Climbing is only allowed after 6pm on the routes above the Marine Drive during Bank Holiday weekends and during the school summer holiday July 8th until Sept 15th, 

Restrictions apply from 26 March - 18 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Thanks all - the choughs have successfully fledged three young chicks and the restrctions has been lifted on June 18th

 

New Seasonal Climbing Restriction Mayfair Wall March 2018 until June 30th

Choughs are nesting  right in the middle of  the routes Contusion/Mayfair and as these birds have special legal protection, the routes Contusion, Mayfair, Julio Juvenito, Carrigan's Groove, Masterplan,  Masterclass, Harry the Clamp, Disilluioned Screw Machine and Thunder road are restricted until June 30th.  It is a criminal offence to disturb nesting Choughs. The restriction will be lifted immediately when the birds fledge or if the nest fails.  Signs are in place at the base of the cliff. 

In addition in most years , Kesterels nest on the route Norman's Wisdom in the Testament Area. Please do not climb that route or the two routes either side until the birds have fledged, which should be the end of June.

CRoW Information

On Open Access land. Find map here; http://www.ccw.gov.uk/

Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and school summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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Anonymous User
18/04/2019
School holiday restrictions listed appear to be at odds with the North Wales Limestone Guide. Amendment needed. Should read 15/07 - 08/09
Anonymous User
04/05/2019
I have made this comment before.. the dates for school holiday restrictions are at odds with those contained in the N Wales limestone guide.