Craig Arthur

Clwyd Limestone

Great crag with high quality routes (both adventurous trad. and some great bolt protected routes) on steep terrain and good rock.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
County Denbighshire Access Status: Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 100
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SJ224472

The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest and an European designated Special Area Of Conservation. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.

 

Reason: Nesting Birds

2017 -  applies from the route  "Black & Blue"  to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are restricted from Feb 15th until July 31st. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions.   All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.

Update May 15th 2017 - it appears that the  birds have failed to nest this year and the restriction has been lifted early.

 

 

 

Parking and Approach

Parking at the World's End path is very restricted. Do not park on or in the passing places on  the road. Parking is suggested to be in lay-bys or pull ins above the wooded area on the open moor.

Group Advice

Unsuitable.

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and in the Trevor Area. The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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